Are you protecting your cuticle layer from uneccessary protein loss?

Combing is just one of those things we all have to do on a regular basis for grooming purposes and managing tangles. This is why I have to share with you some interesting facts I read about as a result of a study conducted in 1995. In the study presented at the Annual meeting of Cosmetic Scientists. Researchers sought to isolate and measure the amount of protein the hair strand loses during the simple acts of shampooing and combing. Their hypothesis was that hair fragments from the cuticle layer are chipped away gradually causing eventual deterioration of the hair strand.

As part of the study, the researchers combed strands of hair for 10 strokes, measured protein loss, then combed again for another 10 strokes, measure, and continue with the same process for up to 100 strokes. As you would imagine, they found that the amount of protein loss increased directly in correlation with the number of combing strokes each strand received. The next phase of the study involved shampooing the strands of hair. Following the shampoo, the strands were combed to see how much protein would be lost as a result the process. In this particular study, they tested the effectiveness of two separate shampoos. "Brand B" was found to offer better protection against cuticle chipping protein loss than "Brand A". Not only that, they also noticed that the strand shampooed with Brand B did not increase the protein loss amount as they continued to increase the number of combing strokes. So in other words, "B's" protection of the strand remained consistent no matter how many times the hair was combed during that session. I tried desperately to determine what ingredient(s) were unique to Brand B that set it apart from "A". No clue was given in the study other than the fact that "shampoo B [allowed the hair to] comb significantly more easily than shampoo A."

Overall, the researchers found that protein loss was the highest in non-conditioning shampoos.

Although most of the study was conducted on virgin hair, those involved in the research took it to the next level by testing chemically altered hair (permed/bleached). Obviously, hair that was chemically treated saw the highest amount of protein loss during manipulation. This is due to the changes to the hair shaft after the chemicial treatment. The cuticle layers are more prone to open up as a result of the process. This makes it easier to experience chipping during manipulation.

One of the conclusions made after testing both virgin and processed hair is that the same conditioners which helped to provide some cuticle protection to virgin hair, offered little to no protection when used on the same type of hair after a chemical process. Remember when I posted a link to Royale3086's regimen video? If you recall, Royale said she opts for products made for damaged/dry hair even if her hair looks and feels strong. I have always followed the same reasoning. Don't go by how healthy your hair seems. If you have udergone any chemical process, always reach for extra moisturizing/strengthening products made specifically for chemically treated hair. Your tresses will respond much better to these types of products, and they'll to protect your even after the product has been washed out.

I should also mention that the method researchers used to collect the lost "protein" for measurement was simply by shaking the hair strand in a container of water. The loosened hair fragments would be extracted from the water for assessment. When I read this, I thought about how much protein we could be loosing just from the simple of act regular washing. This study was quite interesting, for me, so I thought I'd list some key tips that we can learn from to protect our hair from this dreaded protein loss.

• Protein loss in the hair strand increased with the number of comb/brush strokes. Knowing this, we should always make sure that when ever we comb, we lubricate the hair with our most effect moisturizer and or natural oil. This will help to create that "ease of combing" which reduces protein loss. Ease of combing=fewer strokes.
• If you are not pre-pooing, shame on you! By pre-pooing, you are providing extra cuticle layer protection prior to the manipulation that will occur during your wash. Even if you aren't scrubbing the hair clean, there will be some friction during the process. Protect your hair, do...not....skip.....the.....pre.....poo.....step.
• Add some coconut oil to the pre-poo. Coconut oil, in a different study, was found to help penetrate the follicle bringing it's nourishing properties all the way down to where the hair needs it most.
• Always go for products designed for weak damaged hair. Even if your hair feels strong at the moment. Remember, the chipping away is gradual. If you aren't always providing your hair that protection, you might find yourself reacting to damage later on instead of protecting your hair from further damage today.
• Use detangling combs to help with ease of combing. Remember, the fewer strokes you use, the better.
• Of course, remember, to use the most extreme care you can whenever handling wet hair.
• Do not stop searching until you find the perfect conditioning shampoo. The more slip/softness the shampoo provides, the more protected your cuticle layer from excessive chipping.
• Stock up on ceramide containing products. Remember, ceramides are the quintessential glue that helps keep the cuticle layer intact. The more ceramide your strand contains, the better chance it has at withstanding damage due to manipulation.

I don't know about you, but I can certainly say that I benefited from learning from the findings that resulted from the study. Going forward, I'll be thinking about the tiny little cuticle chips that I may stand to lose anytime I get lazy, or heavy handed with my hair (especially during the wash).

Hope this helped you. I know it will make a big difference in how I approach my wash going forward.

Will what got me here get me there? My thoughts on achieving the next hair length goal

The other day, while standing in line at a local dine in restaurant, I noticed a customer already ahead of me waiting in line. What caught my eye specifically was her lovely waist-length dark hair. In days past, I would glance only momentarily at such a head of hair before moving on to my next thought. Recently, however, I find myself gazing longingly at low mid-back/waist-length hair. More and more, I am beginning to covet every waist length head of hair that enters my line of sight. I take this as a sign that it's now time to update my hair length goals. Up until now, I rarely focused on reaching specified lengths. I merely focused my energy on discovering ways to impact the health of the hair. While I have gained length along the way, I can honestly say that I haven't focused much on gaining inches as a major priority.

So now I'm in a place where I have to think realistically about how I intend to reach these new lengths. First off, I am not under any impression that obtaining waist length will be easy. On the contrary, I believe that "what got me here won't get me there" with regards to my habits and hair practices. At the moment, I'm at my current length because the consistent actions I've taken up until now create the head of hair I have today. Sure, I may be doing all the right things with regards to washing, conditioning and such, but I'm probably also doing (or not doing) things that keep me at a certain length as time passes.

I'm not making these statements to knock any of my progress thus far. In fact, I'm really happy with all of the progress and learning I've experienced up to this moment. At the same time, I completely understand that with wanting to get to the next level more will be required of me. So now I'm at a place where I am looking critically at all of the patterns and behaviors I carry out related to my hair routines. Without much thought I can easily identify that which holds me back. For the sake of being totally transparent, I'll list some of them below:

• I can't (for the like of me) seem to keep a bun in for longer than 48 hours straight. The thought of wearing a bun for 3-4 weeks (or longer) just pains me.
• Every 10-15 minutes. I fondle my hair. There's no way around it. In fact, I will take various opportunities while writing this post to touch my hair.
• Co-washing between washes feels like somewhat of a burden. Rarely do I wash more than once every 4-6 days.

Mind you, these habits aren't the end of the world, but you can see how I can easily graduate to the next level if only I could overcome the negative repercussions of my naughty hair habits. So now my thoughts are buzzing with the question "can I reach low mid-back/waist length hair if I continue to do what I do today?" If I could honestly answer this question by saying "yes", then I'm in a good place. If, on the other hand, my honest assessment is that I likely won't get to waist length. Then the next question I have to answer is "what's it gonna take?"

Before I answer the "what's it gonna take" question, I first have to identify the negative repercussions of continuing the actions that currently hold me back.

As I review the list above, I come to the following conclusions:

• Lack of consistent protective styling exposes my ends to the drying effects of air. Hair that battles with dryness is likely to be prone to breakage. Breakage is the great hinderer of retention and by stifling my retention rate, I assume the risk of not reaching my length goal.
• Frequent manipulation of my hair can also encourage breakage.

So now I come to a place where I must decide if the repercussions of the negative habits are severe enough to influence a change in my actions so I can experience the results I desire. At this point in time, I'm remain stubborn on not being willing to drastically change those habits. I am motivated, however, to identify and instill some additional strategies that will help minimize the impact of the negative results. This means finding out other ways to fortify the hair to withstand some of the unwanted side effects of frequent manipulation and excessive exposure to air.

.....this will be my area of focus over the next several months......

I don't yet have the solution, but I have implemented a few ideas that have already shown some considerable promise. Some of my other ideas, however, have produced disappointing outcomes. Either way, my focus remains steadfast as I move slowly towards the finish line. The finish line, which seems incredibly far away considering the few unhealthy habits that serve as a handicap. Even though low mid-back may take a bit longer than someone else in the same scenario who hides and doesn't constantly fondle their hair, it is not an impossible task. If courageous individuals born without natural limbs can win foot races, a fondling non-protective styler like me can have long hair.

So what about you?

What hair goals are you striving for at the moment? Do you have any hindering habits that keep you from moving forward? Are those habits worth holding on to despite their obvious repercussions?

You want to take it to the next level....What's it gonna take?

Misikko Hana Flat Iron Review (and giveaway)

I was contacted not too long ago by a representative from misikko.com. They generously offered to send me one of their favorite hair straighteners for review. The particular model I received was the Hana professional pink edition. At first, I wasn't really compelled to take on another flat iron because I already owned the Revlon Sedu. But, honestly, I was sold when the good folks at misikko generously offered to give a flat iron away to a Relaxed Hair Health reader.

One thing I have to say about this iron is that the package came with more than what I expected. Within it's contents was a rubber-like mat for laying the kana. I can remember burning a mark into my bathroom countertop many moons ago under the hands over an over-heated curling iron. With the mat, I never have to worry about this happening again. Also inside the package were some emory board nail files, a travel size bottle of hand sanitizer, and a 2 oz size "shine shield" serum. The shine serum itself was unbelievable light and contains jojoba oil. At first I though the nail files were kinda odd in a flat iron kit. But after thinking about it for a few seconds, I knew the folks at misikko were contemplating how crucial it is not to have chipping, or splitting nails when you are about to manipulate the hair. Perfectly smooth nails help avoid snagging of the hair on your nails which can lead to unnecessary breakage. The iron also came in it's own pink storing case but I think my favorite accessory of all was the tin box the iron came in. This thing turned out to be the perfect storage device for my eye shadow collection.

The iron itself has multiple temperature settings for optimal control. This thing also heats up in record time. The Hana iron was ultra light and easy to handle. I also love the fact that irons are now evolving to a level where they are able to do their job without inflicting as much damage to the hair as they did in the past thanks to tourmaline technology.

So let's talk about your opportunity to get one of these babies for yourself (for free).

The contest will run between now and May 14th to U.S and Canadian residents. The winner will be selected randomly on May 15th. Here's what you can do to enter in the giveaway:

• "Follow me" on the blog/"Fan me" on Facebook.
• You can blog about the giveaway on your website/blog/Facebook, etc.
• Follow misikko on twitter: http://www.twitter.com/misikko (2 entries)
• Join misikko's newsletter, you get three contest entries.

**Send me an email to relaxedhairhealth@gmail.com letting me know you want to enter the giveaway. In the email, please include which of the options above qualify you for entry into the giveaway. You can choose to fulfill the requirements of more than one option for additional chances to win. Winner will have 48 hours to respond once selected on May 15th.

Best of luck to you all! If you want to check out other hair tools, misikko.com also has

• Chi hair straighteners.
• FHI flat irons.
• And also professional hair dryers

Spotlight on healthy hair: Royale3086

On this long journey of ours, it's always nice to run across a passerby with a luscious, mouth-watering head of hair. I just happened to stumble upon such a person on youtube. This wonderful hair inspiration goes by the username Royale3086. In the video, Ms. Royale discusses her favorite products she uses to keep her hair looking fabulous. My hat goes off to her for maintaining double processed hair that is still able to look like this

Detangling Combs Rock!

Yes, it's that time again. I've posted another video update on Youtube that I wanted to share with you all. Today I'm all excited about my detangling combs. Tangles have been my achilles heel for a while now and today I feel like I've been set free from the bondage of those nasty tangles. I talk about two different types to detangling combs, each effective in their own way. I am really confident about the possibility of extending my stretches with the help of these babies!

Any ways enough talking, check out the vid:





I also thought I'd post another vid of a fellow hair journey traveler who also reviewed the Conair comb. Notice how easy the comb glides through his freshly washed natural hair.



For those of you were are as intrigued about the Ouidad comb as I was, here's some more info:




The Ouidad comb is available at Sephora or at Amazon.com

Three techniques I used to cleanse and detox my scalp

Since my last post, I've completed a total of three wash cycles where I placed a heavy focus on cleansing/purifying/detoxing my scalp. With each wash, I used a different process to treat the scalp. Zen detox, Nioxin scalp therapy and baking soda were my weapons of choice as I declared war on my unhealthy scalp. Part of the reason why I used overwhelming force to treat my scalp is because, some time ago, I was diagnosed as having seborrheic dermatitis. I just knew that without direct intervention, my poor strands were suffocating under a layer of build-up and dandruff.

Nioxin scalp therapy has been a staple of mine for years. As I mentioned in the last post, this was the first product I purchased the moment I read about and understood the need to maintain a healthy scalp. What I appreciate about the Nioxin brand is the amount of attention and focus they place on a functional scalp. Their line boasts of several products dedicated to the health of your scalp. Next on my list of products to try from them is their follicle booster. Back to the Scalp Therapy. I've used both the normal formula and the one created for chemically treated hair. Not sure why, but I think I like the normal formula better. I think it's because normal formula gave my scalp a bit more tingle when I used it. Both formula's do wonders with regards to my dandruff situation.

Another amazing, unexpected benefit of the Scalp Therapy is it's ability to tame my new growth into full and complete submission. I'm not sure what it is in Scalp Therapy that causes this wonderful side effect, but whenever I use it, my new growth just seems to bow down and listen. It just has a way of slightly loosening the texture, turning tight curls into softer waves. Detangling becomes a breeze and styling the hair becomes much more possible. In the past, I've used Scalp Therapy as a last resort when combating dandruff. Now that I have this new level of awareness, I'll be re-incorporating into my regimen on an ongoing basis. When I used this amazing product the other day, I parted my hair into multiple small sections and applied to the scalp much like a relaxer. Then I massaged and left the product in for a good 30 minutes while I allowed it to work it's magic. Scalp therapy acts like a conditioner, so when it's rinsed out, the hair feels soft and more manageable.

The following wash I, broke out my Zen Detox so I could complete a scalp purifying mask. In my zealous attempt to really draw out impurities, I also combined some of my Aztec clay to the Zen Detox. These purifying clays are supposed to act on the scalp as they would on the skin (after all, the scalp is still skin right?). They remove impurities from the surface level while claiming to have the ability to also draw out toxins from beneath the surface. Once again I applied this liquid clay in the same manner as a relaxer, parting and applying. Applying and parting. I also used some of the mixture on the length of my hair as well. I should also mention that Zen Detox also has a way of softening up the new growth. While I applied product and massaged, I could feel my curls lengthening as the clay penetrated. Honestly, I felt like after I washed and styled, my hair seemed to have some build up. My scalp felt great but my hair had somewhat of a film to it. I think it has something to do with my mix of both Zen and Aztec. Last time I only used Zen, I didn't mix the product and I had no felling of residue. I should also mention that I included an egg in my conditioning mix and absentmindedly used warm water during part of my rinse. I had dry egg bits in my hair which could also have been culprit of my build up. Either way, I'll use Zen Detox again, but next time I won't try to get all fancy with how I use it. Just Zen and nothing else.

During my third wash, I tried a totally new experience by using baking soda. Much like the detox clay, baking soda is said to have the ability to loosen old skin cells and remove impurities from the scalp. Baking soda is alkaline in nature so it also worked to slightly straighten the new growth. Because of it's grainy, gritty texture, I decided to mix the baking soda with a conditioner so that I didn't cause too much abrasion to the scalp as I massaged it in. As with the other scalp treatments, I parted and applied as one would a relaxer. Following the application I proceeded to gently massage. The entire experience felt really good. I kept the baking soda mixture on/near the scalp and applied my regular conditioners along the length of the hair. I left everything in for about 40 minutes or so and, I'm sitting here two days later with fabulous hair. My hair is soft and, most of all, my scalp is thriving.

The final step to my ultra-healthy scalp routine was a relaxing massage using drops of eucalyptus oil directly on the scalp. This was such a soothing experience that I've decided to make it a weekly activity. People rave about the benefits of eucalyptus oil on the scalp. I just really enjoy the mild scalp tingle. It makes me feel like I'm really doing something beneficial.

Since incorporating these three scalp treatments into my routine, my dandruff has reduced dramatically. My hair also looks amazing which is an added benefit that I was not expecting. Now that I think about it, those wonderful scalp treatments were probably also working to clarify the hair which is why it responded so well to the conditioner.

I think that process I've undergone the past few washes was an experiment in what method worked best. While I don't expect to conduct full scalp "facials" every wash, I do intend to incorporate at least one healthy scalp aid into my routine at least once a week. I just want to make sure I never get to a place where the health of my scalp isn't always top of mind. I also want to thank you ladies for leaving comments on what you do to keep your scalp healthy. You gave me some great ideas. Thanks again and keep 'em coming!

Is your scalp suffocating? Find out what it's doing to your hair

A have a ritual that I do before every wash where I stand in front of my massive hair product closet and select the items I'll be including in my pre-poo and deep conditioning. Some of the products are my staples and remain within arms reach. Others are less frequently utilized and rest in the shadows. Rarely do I spend much time peeking at the products in the back because I just assumed they were back there for a reason. This week, however, I decided to take a gander to see if there's any special conditioner I may be missing out on. I'm so glad I took that extra time to look because I rediscovered one of my greatest hair loves of days past. Nioxin Scalp Therapy.


I've used Scalp Therapy on and off for years. I first rushed to the store for this product when I read the online story of a girl who received a scalp scope. A scalp scope is like a microscope for the scalp. It takes up close images of the hair strands and scalp. It helps to determine the level of blockage and buildup one has on their hair and scalp. The images are magnified 200 X and displayed on a TV screen where you can clearly see how your scalp measures against a healthy scalp.

An "unhealthy scalp" usually appears shiny due to the excess sebum build up near the hair follicles. The woman online described her scalp as looking like a Krispy Kreme donut. I found a site online with some close up images of what is considered an unhealthy scalp along with the ideal appearance of a healthy, thriving scalp. As you scroll through the images, start from the bottom of the page and work your way up. Notice how the strands of hair are impacted when the scalp is clogged and unhealthy versus when the scalp is healthy and vibrant.

Check out the pics and see for yourself.

Did you notice how strong and healthy the hair strands appeared when the scalp was in it's optimal state? As I was looking at those pics, I found myself wondering how much of our shedding could be attributed to the health of the scalp.

So what does this all mean? While we're focusing on deep conditioning, moisturizing and sealing, we may be missing out on a crucial part of our ultimate healthy hair experience. It all starts from the scalp so we also should implement strategies that bring health to the area where we need may need it most. When I think I about my own experience, I have to admit that my scalp is just not something I focus on. I think back to years past when I used to "feel my scalp." By feeling I mean I would experience the sensation of the air touching my scalp. Nowadays, I'm sure my scalp is laden with so much buildup I can't remember the last time I had that "clean scalp feeling." Sure, I apply ACV to my scalp from time to time but so did the woman who got her scalp scoped. She also claimed to wash her hair nearly every day.

I'm convinced in the direct link between a healthy scalp and thriving hair. Follicles that are suffocating under large thick flakes or a sea of sebum can't possibly produce the most healthy hair. You've seen it for yourself in the pics on that website. This post was originally meant to serve as a review for Scalp Therapy but I'll save that piece for an upcoming post. What I'd like to do is continue this conversation further by discussing ways we can treat our scalp to bring about health.

I'd love to hear your thoughts. How do you think your scalp would look under a scope?