Using Heat and Mainting Healthy Hair Part 2

Let's continue on in the conversation about heat usage and healthy hair shall we?  As you recall from my last post, I brought up the subject of heat usage in an effort to understand if we can incorporate heat into our regimens in a powerful way.  Using heat (for good and not evil) isn't an easy task.  We all know those who have fallen as casualties to the destructive powers of heat.  We don't want to be one of them so let's take a moment to identify some of the factors that cause/create heat damage.

• Styling tool used
• Frequency of heat usage
• Ineffective protection of the hair from heat 
• Lack of replenishment (rebuilding of) the hair before/after heat usage
• Improper use of heat

Now here's the good part where we dissect each of these factors one by one.

Styling tool used

 I've invested a couple of hundred dollars on flat irons even though I use heat only a few times a year.  Why?  Because:

1.  I can not afford to have a sub-par flat iron ruin my hair because I tried to save a few dollars. 
2. Flat irons are evolving into less damaging tools (and I want to take advantage of the newest technology).

When I use my Sedu ceramic iron, my hair feels smoother & silkier than with my old flat iron.  Does this mean that my hair is healthier when I use my Sedu?  Possibly. But what's really more important is that because my hair feels better when I use this quality iron, I tend to avoid using it again because the need isn't as great.  Even though I love my Sedu, I still  purchased a titanium flat iron because (allegedly) titanium is said to be smoother (when viewed under a microscope) than ceramic.  My search for the perfect flat iron plates may continue, but for now, I won't blindly close my eyes to the dangers of heat and use it inappropriately just because they claim to be healthier for the hair.

***side note:  Those of us who visit salons may notice that our hair feels  really healthy after getting it straightened.  One thing to note is that it's very likely that your stylist uses a quality flat iron on your hair which can create a smoother, silkier result. Quality does matter. ***

Healthy Heat Usage Tip #1:  Go for the best tools you can afford

Frequency of Heat Usage

If you break out your flat/curing iron more than once every week, you are asking, no begging, for heat ravaged hair.  It's inevitable.  Let's think about this for one minute.  Hot metal plates, which can easily burn our skin is applied (with pressure) to our hair strand.  This initial use of heat may have the ability to seal the top layer of the cuticle layer down.  Steam rises as the moisture in our hair evaporates.  Then.....three days later.....you put your hair through the same process again.  Your hair is probably already be straightened from the first instance, now you're doing it again to "freshen up" the style.  That is a huge risk to your hair.  I remember the days when girls would break out their flat iron to bump their ends every morning.  No wonder everyone was walking around with perpetual neck length hair.  All the ladies I talked to with (healthy hair) used heat every week or every two weeks.  Breaking out the flat iron between wash days was a no-no!  Honestly, I don't think using heat every week is a good idea but some people are able to do it.  Like Phoenix mentioned in the comments in part 1 of this post.  Those of us who relax our hair shouldn't have the need to use direct heat for at least the first 2 or so months post relaxer.  Any heat usage before that may be considered overkill. 


Healthy Heat Usage Tip# 2:  The flat/curling iron is a SEALING TOOL, not a styling tool.  Use it as a styling aid and heat damage will become your new best friend. 

Lack of Replenishment before/after heat usage

Let's say you're someone who visits the salon every week or two weeks for your wash and style.  Chances are, you are getting a deep condition (under a hooded dryer) with every visit.  If you're like our friend Toni, you may even be receiving steam treatments when you deep condition.  When I was introduced to the Mircromist steamer, my hair faired beautifully after my blow dry and flat iron session.  In fact,  Marie promised me that if I visited her regularly, she could have my hair at a healthy waist length in no time.  Why?  Because she would take the time to nurture my hair with each session prior to the heat styling.  The heat styling would then become a method of sealing all of the high quality products into my strands.  For those of us who don't put in the work of fortifying the strands ahead of time, using heat on the hair can will be highly destructive. 


Healthy Heat Usage Tip #3:  Only use heat following a deep replenishment process (deep conditioning or steam treatment).

Improper use of heat

I've mention several times that our heat irons should be used as sealing tools.  But I don't want you to get all excited about  what I like to call "reckless sealing."  The iron shouldn't be doing all of the work.  You've got to do all you can to seal your hair prior, during and after, so your iron doesn't have to do all the heavy lifting. There are a myriad of ways to help your iron do it's a job.  Rinsing with cold water, apple cider vinegar, and even acid water will help seal the cuticles before the drying process.  When using the iron, opt for additional tension (the chase method as seen in this video) and more pressure versus turning the temperature dial higher.  Also realize that bone straight hair can be achieved with the help of the iron and other techniques like wrapping the hair, or tying it under a scarf to manage bulk.  So basically, don't look to your sealing tool to do all of the work. 

**p.s. I know some of y'all are wondering about this "acid water" I mentioned earlier. Acid water is the newest addition to my hair regimen (as of this afternoon).  Once I've had a chance to play with it for a few days, I'll post my thoughts.**


Healthy Heat Usage Tip #4:  Seal your hair prior to flat ironing and leverage tension so less heat is required to achieve desired results.

Ineffective protection from heat

Investing in quality "sealing tools" is one thing, but getting the best in heat protectants is the holy grail of effective heat usage.  Heat protectants have two main purposes including "protecting the hair from heat" and helping to promote that smooth, silky feeling.  I'm here to challenge our way of thinking about heat protectants which I will now refer to as heat-activated strengtheners.  If the product you are using isn't a heat activated strengthener.....toss it.  For the longest, I used Gleau whenever I flat ironed.  Was it the best choice, who knows? But I used it because I knew that whatever product I utilized would be seared into the hair strand through the use of heat.  The heat protectors in my arsenal were not heat-activated strengtheners so I chose to go without.   It wasn't until my salon visit with Marie that I finally found a heat activated strengthener that, I thought, was worth using. 

Ladies can I introduce you to my homie, Kerastase Fibre Architecte?

Seriously, my hair never felt as silky and soft and when I left Marie's chair when she first introduced Fibre Architecte to me.  Then I learned that this product contained a Pro-Keratin complex, wheat protein, and ceramides (the holy trinity of healthy hair).  I didn't even bat an eye at the $40.00 price point.  The cost meant absolutely nothing to me because this product manifested itself as a perfect heat-activated strengthener.  Each time I used heat, my hair would be receiving reinforcement beyond what occurred during the wash and condition. Along with the Fibre Architecte, I also snatched up the Ciment Thermique Heat Activated Reconstructor Milk.  This product feels like a thick moisturizer. You can apply to wet/damp hair before using a blow dryer for added strengthening.  Since I don't normally blow dry, I use it as a moisturizer when I notice some breakage.  I also use it on my hair before apply the Fibre-Architecte so I have two layers of heat-activated strengthening.  For now, these are my strengtheners of choice.  If I find something more powerful, I will certainly let you all know.    

 Healthy Heat Usage Tip #5:  Your hair deserves the best, use quality heat-activated strengtheners!

When we visit salons regularly for heat styling, they tend to use quality products to replenish the hair and they may even do a decent job of protecting the hair from heat.  What I think they miss is when it comes to improper use of heat.  Sometimes the tension used is excessive along with a high temperature setting.  Hence the long term damage and thinning one experiences.  With these tips mentioned perhaps you can incorporate the good while eliminating the destructive parts of heat usage.  I'm hoping to give you some things to consider if you choose to use heat from time to time as a part of your regimen.  To be honest, some people do o.k. with heat as long as the rules are being followed.  And of course, you can also give your hair a break from heat as necessary. If your hair does better when the strands are sealed, consider these healthy heat usage tips as a part of the road map on your amazing hair journey.

Safe travels.

Conair Flexi Rods: Giving me absolutely perfect curls every time

It was over a year ago when I posted a quick blurb on the Facebook page about some flexi rods I purchased at my local Target store. I remember standing in the aisle, staring at the package, wondering if these rods were worth the over $12.00 asking price. For years I've paid around $4.00-$5.00 for flexi rods and not a penny more. The only issue I was having was that every so often, I was purchasing a new pair set of flexi rods. One thing I hate, is having to purchase the same item over and over again, because it no longer maintains it's effectiveness. So this time I decided to do something different and take the plunge.



Boy am I glad I did. Fourteen months later and these bad boys are still as firm and bendable as the day I got them! I can't tell you the number of times I've been disappointed by my results in the past when I've used faulty flexi rods that couldn't create or hold a curl. Currently, I'm in the midst of purging my clutter and unnecessary items as I move into the new year and one of the items on the chopping block are my old, worthless, flexi-rods that no longer serve their purpose. So I'm dedicating this post to my new flexi curlers because they never seem to fail me. Take a gander at this look I created today on dry hair with the help of my curlers, leave-in, and some Gleau oil. I slept overnight in the curlers, took them out this morning and voila!






The look I was going for was volume. On my side is four months of new growth plus the fact that I wore by hair in a high bun for the last couple of days. When I took my bun down, my hair was much more voluminous than if I had been wearing my hair down. I used that to my advantage.






The flexi rods have pretty much been my hair's best friend ever since the humidity died down. They help me create wearable looks without (potentially damaging) heat. They're so wonderful.



Merry Christmas!

KeraPro: How does the low cost version of Kerastase stack up to the original

So you all know by now that Kerastase products are all I can think about at the moment. After my first review post, I was contacted by miss EbonyPrincess asking whether the version of Kerastase products available at Sally's were any good. I didn't even know that Sally's carried a Kerastase alternative. Come to find they do have a line out created by Naturelle called Kera Pro!

I figured that now is a good to see if I could find another product that could work as effectively as my darling Nutri-Thermique at a fraction of the price. So of course I made a trip to my local Sally's to see if I could get my hands on the product. I thought to myself "even if the Kera Pro isn't exactly like the Nutri-Thermique, as long as it's 75% as effective, I can at least use it to help stretch my Kerastase". I must have paced the store 5 or 6 times before I found the Kera Pro. For some reason I thought it would be packaged like the traditional black and white bottles containing "generic versions" of professional products. Finally I summoned the help of an employee who helped me identify the product once I gave her the name. Within moments I had the product in hand. I glanced at the price and realized that for the price of one 6.8 oz jar of Kerastase was equal in price to about five jars of the Kera Pro.

As part of my review, I'd like to compare the ingredients. "But what had happened was" that Kerastase doesn't actually list the ingredients on the jar but on on the product box the Thermique comes in. Unfortunately, I threw away the Kerastase box shortly after I ripped it open to reveal the contents. Luckily for me, the ingredients were available online. One thing I notice immediately when comparing the two is that Kera Pro actually contain some natural ingredients. Coconut and safflower seed oil to be exact. Kera Pro also has both Hydrolyzed Keratin and Hydrolyzed rice protein. Kerastase contains only Wheat Protein.

What I can say for sure is that the products vary greatly in appearance. The Kera Pro is a solid white conditioner, while the Nutri-Thermique has sort of a beige buttery hue. Another thing that jumps out at me as I check out both products is that the Nutri-Thermque has a glisteny look to it. The Kera Pro looks much more matte than its counterpart. When I pick up both jars and tilt them on their side. The Nutri-Thermique starts to "run" to one side of the jar. The Kera Pro remains completely still. I interpret this as the Nutri-Thermique has a more of a watery texture than the Pro. When I scoop both products with my fingers. The Nutri-Thermique is obviously more creamy. As I rub my fingers together, I feel like the Kera Pro feels like a dry, heavy, lotion more so than a conditioner (the consistency is similar to a body butter). I dunno, it just doesn't scream "moisturizing" when I touch it.





(when I did a finger test, the Kerastase began to slowly travel down my fingers, the Kera Pro remained in place)

The real test, however, comes when the rubber meets the road and the product is applied to my hair. Believe it or not, even though the Kera Pro doesn't look or feel as moisturizing as the Nutri-Thermique, when I massage into my dry hair, it feels almost as moisturizing as the Nutri-Thermique. How can that be? Honestly, I don't know how to explain it. I just don't. Because of its heavier texture, the Kera Pro does take a little more work to massage it into the strand. The Thermique seems to settle into the hair much easier. But once in, I can barely notice the difference between the two, with the exception that Kera Pro is a bit heavier and can leave a white residue if not worked in all the way. But as far as how moisturizing the product feels on the strand, Kera Pro holds its own.

Since our first conversation, EbonyPrincess sent me an email sharing her experience after purchasing the KeraPro shampoo and elixir. Her experience with the products gave her "amazing results." Ebony was gracious enough to give us a detailed account of her experience.

Shampoo - I normally am a die-hard fan for sulfate free shampoos and cleansers, and although I bought the Kerapro shampoo for dry to very dry hair I was skeptical. However, it did feel moisturizing but clean. And if I adopt the Kerapro regimen completely I do think sulfates are necessary because the serum contains a fair amount of cones. One wash got my hair very clean and I do think it is gentle enough to use weekly.


Conditioner - The directions say to apply for five minutes, no mention of using heat. To do a fair review, I tried it with heat, without heat, for five minutes and for longer. It definitely is effective in as little as five to ten minutes but should be used with heat to gain full benefits. Without heat it felt like it coated the hair whereas when I conditioned with my heating cap it felt like it penetrated the strands and made my hair feel soft and moisturized long after it dried.


Elixir - Slightly superior to the other serums I've used, gives the same smooth coating effect but is not as heavy as some of the other -cone laden serums.


All of the products contain both protein (hydrolyzed keratin & rice protein) and ceramides in the way of safflower oil. I lost very little hair while rollersetting and despite them being a little heavy on the protein side, my hair felt VERY soft and moisturized which still has me a little perplexed. However, my results have been amazing and I can't wait to try the conditioner with my new steamer which is on its way (another item I literally couldn't wait to get because of your reviews!).

So there you have it! Ebony sounds like she's one happy camper. My final assessment of the product is that it's definitely worth trying since KeraPro is modeled after such a superior line. I will continue to purchase Kerastase products since I now have a taste for it that will never subside...but I am also elated that there's an alternative for times when I run out and can't afford to drop $60.00 plus on a conditioner (it sounds worse when I see it in writing). I'm grateful that KeraPro is available to us and I'm thankful that Ebony was proactive in giving good feedback so we could try it for ourselves.

My MicroMist Salon Experience: Did it live up to my expecations?

Shortly after I completed the feature on Miss Pink Pearls, I was excited to locate Kerastase products of my own so I conducted a zip code search online for the nearest retail location. The result that popped up was a salon located not too far from me. So of course I made my way over there to see about picking up some items. Being that it was my first time trying this product line, I requested that a stylist come out and walk me through the benefits of each to see which would best suit my hair needs.

While I waited for someone to surface, I visually browsed the inside of this swanky salon. I've seen it many times before but never had the opportunity to view the inside. As I was taking it all in, something immediately caught my eye. It was this weird looking steamer machine situated near the back of the salon. Intrigued, I immediately wanted to take a picture so I can find out more about this mysterious piece of equipment. After my brief consultation, I proceeded with my purchase. The ever observant receptionist noticed my purchase and graciously shared a special offer of a free (steam) treatment if I purchased a shampoo/conditioner combo. You guys know what happened next......

Fast forward a few weeks and I stumbled upon this salon in West Hollywood offering oxygen scalp therapy. My curiosity got the best of me so I immediately located someone who I could interview to learn about this process. While her answers were a bit veiled, what I got from her was that the Oxygen Therapy machine used technology that influenced the quality of the "oxygen." A little confused, I asked the lady, "so is this like a steamer?" A bit reluctant to use layman's terms, she eventually responded "yes."

That night, the first thing I did was research this magnificent steamer. I learned that it was a MicroMist steamer. Now, all of us by now should be familiar with steamers. We've discussed this topic many times on this blog. This steamer, my dears, is unlike all of them we've been exposed to whether via YouTube, hair forums, or whatever. The MicroMist steamer is the Bentley of the steamer world. Here's a brief summary describing it's benefits that you can check out. Basically, it uses ultrasonic technology to emit microscopic water particles that are better able to penetrate the strands. Plus this bad boy has the ability to release cool mist which we know can help seal the cuticle layer after the moisture has been infused. Immediately upon learning more about the MicroMist, I was ready to explore the option of purchasing one.....that is until I came across the price tag of $2,000. Y'all know I can get a little crazy sometimes with the hair related purchases but $2,000 is where I draw the line. Just before the tears of sorrow were about to well up from deep inside, I remembered that I had free treatment coupon from the Prive Salon.

Literally, the next chance I had, I went to book my appt. Part of the reason I agreed to a service at this Euro salon is because:

#1. The MicroMist steamer and

#2. They have an woman of color stylist on staff.

Prior to securing the appointment, I asked to have a face to face discussion with the stylist. I left the salon that day with a huge smile on my face because Marie was the most pleasant, accommodating stylist I ever met in my life. She put me completely at ease and let me know that my desires to keep my hair healthy during this process was her number one priority as well.

The day of my visit, I felt like I was part of the upper echelon. While sitting in the stylist chair, the salon's owner came by to offer clients chilled Mimosa drinks. Never had this experience in a salon before. Is this what it's normally like in these salons?

Another reason why I was excited for the service is because the salon uses Kerastase products, which means that I know the products will be effective and I could save the use of some of the products I have at home. Prior to my deep conditioning Marie broke out a jar of the Nutri-Thermique (which I've raved about). She used ample product on my thick, course hair and she took the time to part my hair in small sections during application while I sipped my Mimosa. What more can a girl ask for?

Then came the moment that I had been waiting for. It was as if cherubs where singing as she wheeled the MicoMist closer to me. The excitement I was feeling was disgustingly obvious. I couldn't wait to get started.

So she started off by loosely pinning my hair up placing the steamer over my hair. Next she secured the velvet cloth so there was no exit point for the steam. Most (I think all) other steamers I've seen have steaming coming from the hood that escapes out during the process. With the MicroMist, all of the steam stayed exactly where it needed to be.

The machine has numerous settings via a touch control panel located on the back of the machine. These settings could be customized according to the condition of the hair.

Ten minutes later, Marie popped back up and removed the hood to observe my hair. I too had a chance to take a look. Unlike when I do traditional steaming, my hair didn't feel hot. This is likely because the machine boil the water to produce steam like traditional steamers. Marie, decided to do an additional 10 minutes just to make sure my thick, textured hair could receive the full benefits. When she finally removed the steamer a second time, my first observation was how puffy my hair was. If was like each strand was swollen by the steam absorption. Instead of hanging downwards, it grew upwards. I take that as a good sign. Also, sometimes my hair drips when after my traditional steam treatment. This time, no sign of dripping. All the moisture was trapped in the strand. It was fabulous.

Marie then began the painstaking process of blow drying and flat ironing my hair. Mind you, my last relaxed was August and my hair has plenty o' texture in it from my use of mild relaxers. I think roller setting may have saved some time but she opted to use a different method. I was terrified of having my wet hair blow dried with a round brush. It was pretty bad when I had it done on dry hair at the Dominican Salon. I could only imagine how damaging doing it on wet hair would be. After voicing my concerns, Marie immediately switched to using a flat brush. Her blow dry technique was surprisingly gentle. The blow dryer was at a very comfortable temperature. No steam arose during the process. Marie was even gracious enough to provide tips on how I could get my hair straighter at home.

When each section was done, she began to flat iron my hair. Being the awesome stylist she is, she applied a small amount of Kerastase Fibre Architecte to each section prior to flat ironing and she showed me the temperature setting of the iron which was below 400 degrees. I think I actually love her.
When the service was completed, I skipped over to the receptionist desk like a school girl and paid for the experience. Then Marie and I walked over to a neighboring restaurant to order take out. While waiting for our orders, a customer complimented Marie on my hair as I walked to the restroom. The end result appeared similar to when I would go to the Dominican Salon but there were some notable differences.

First, my hair had a natural shine to it that was incredibly obvious. Secondly, it was baby soft to the touch and felt nourished and moisturized. I don't know if it was the steamer, the Kerastase products, or (most likely) the combination. But whatever it is, I liked it! My only concern is that I generally don't enjoy my hair being bone straight. But in this case I'll make an exception because it felt so incredibly healthy. My schedule prevented me from taking pics right away so I apologize to all of you for not fulfilling my duty to post fresh from the salon pics as any decent blogger would do. I believe these was taken a week after my salon experience and my hair still felt incredibly soft. As of today, I'm nearing two weeks and even still my hair is perfectly straight and my hair feels really nice.

I still wish I had my own MicroMist that I could have to use weekly. The salon experience, while great, is still more manipulation and heat that I use on a normal basis. Although I'm extremely grateful to have found Marie, I know getting my hair blow dried wet on a weekly basis will create long term results that don't align with my hair goals. I'm seriously contemplating setting up an account where I can draft a small amount of money on a regular basis so that one day, I'll have my MicroMist money sitting there waiting for me. Or perhaps, I will stumble upon a salon that is selling their equipment online due to closing or upgrading and buy the MicroMist at a fraction of the cost.

A girl can dream can't she?

How It's a 10 Miracle w/Keratin & Biolage Strengthening Masque combined together to create hair perfection!

There I was, minding my own business the other day, when I received the following text message:



You could imagine how pleasantly surprised I was to receive such a glowing review so I immediately responded back to find out more. I did what anyone in my position would do....I send her a reply text and requested photographic evidence. Minutes later we were having an actual phone conversation and she proceeded to tell me how excited she was about the loveliness levels of her hair. When she visited the beauty store, she intented to buy Biolage’s Cera Repair after reading my battle post but couldn’t find it (cera repair is sold only online). Instead she picked up the Intensive Strengthening masque which also contains ceramides. She also read my review of It’s a 10 Leave-in and was also on a mission to pick it up but noticed the Keratin version of the same product and opted to upgrade.

I’ve got to preface the rest of my post by mentioning that this individual is not your typical “hair fanatic” like the rest of us. I’m sure she not a member of any of the hair boards and probably doesn’t read any hair blogs. Truth is, she probably only browsed through my blog because we’ve known each other personally for years.

With that said, I tried to be cautious when asking for pictures to share on the blog ‘cause I know that not everyone is comfortable with that kind of thing. Surprisingly she quickly agreed. Not only did she share some pics with us but she also talked a little about what she did to achieve that amazing result.

So without further adieu, here is what she described to me via email:

Hey Nadege,

Round 2...same Great Results! Almost no hair shedding...not only does my hair feel and look incredibly soft and silky, this deep conditioning regimen is also really strengthening my hair, too. I've attached pics, but trust me when I say, my hair looks so much better in person - I just wish I were a better photographer so I could really showcase what these products are doing for my hair. Personally, I think any good conditioning products may do as long as you leave it on your hair for at least 30 mins, but here's an overview of what I used:

While showering I used:
Dove Nutrive Therapy Shampoo - washed and rinsed twice; 3 mins

After showering, I applied:
It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin - lightly sprayed all over hair and massaged through hair and scalp.
Matrix Biolage Intensive Strengthening Masque - massaged all over hair after applying the It's a 10 product. Placed a plastic cap on head and heated hair w/blow dryer for 3-5mins (will skip this step next time to see if results change)
Let the product sit on hair for another 45mins (this is the most important step I think)
Rinsed hair with luke warm water first, then finished rinsing w/cold water
Blow dryed hair, and applied a little Biosilk before using a flat iron to style....
And Voila - the soft and silky feel of my hair was about 90% comparable to when I go to professional salons! Once I master blowing and flat ironing, you guys aren't going to be able to tell me nothin' :o)

Thanks for the ceramide recommendation. Keep up the blog - it's working miracles...I'm living proof!



I’m really excited for her. When we talked on the phone I couldn’t stop smiling as I visualized how amazing her hair looked. I’m so glad she reached out to me because she actually introduced me to two new amazing products. I purchased them last weekend and had a chance to test drive. I won’t say much in this post but I will tell you that I was all smiles. In a later post, I’ll recreate her process with these two products and tell you how it goes.

By the way, I love hearing about success stories so if you have a great story to tell about products you’ve tried from this blog, or even products I haven’t heard about before, feel free to send me an email, leave a comment, or post it on our fan page.

Battle of the Cera-Repairs: Two Biolage Ceramide products go head to head!

Awwww yeah! It's time for another round of hair product battles! This time I'm putting two of the same products together, head to head, for some healthy hair action! You guys may remember today's contenders from my previous post on my favorite ceramides. Yes, my dears, for today's battle we are going to watch as Biolage Cera-Repair and Biolage Cera Repair Pro battle to the death (or whatever).

Enough talking, let's get to it shall we?

You guys know how excited I was when I was first introduced to Biolage Cera-Repair. I was right in the middle of my ceramide high and this product was a perfect compliment to my routine. Ever since my first taste of Cera-Repair, I've been itching to upgrade to the Pro formula. Now that I've had a chance, let me take a moment to compare the two based on my experience thus far.

I think the biggest, and most obvious, difference between the two products is the packaging. Cera-Repair Pro comes in a nifty little convenient glass bottle which makes for convenient usage. The non-pro package is a more of a plastic applicator tube which makes sense for the product's consistency. What I appreciate most about the glass bottle is that I make sure I use every drop of the product with each use. With the regular Cera-Repair, I have to cut the tube open so I can scrape out the last bit of product. Another thing I like about the glass container that it's clear which allows me the freedom available to ration out exactly what I want for pre-poo and deep conditioning. This round goes to Cera-Repair pro because of it's awesome product design.

Next, let's look at the price. As you would imagine, the price for the Cera-Repair Pro formula is a bit more than the regular. Since I can't find these products from the store I get them from Amazon. There are varying prices for the Pro formula but the lowest cost is close to $30.00 for 10 vials. The Hydra repair in the tubes goes for around $20.00 for 10 tubes. Using a little simple math tells me that each unit of the liquid pro formula cost $1 more even though you are getting the same .34 ounces of product per unit. So with that said, I don't believe that you get a full $10.00 of value by upgrading to the Professional Cera-Repair treatment. Those $10 dollars could be allocated elsewhere in your hair regimen. Perhaps a bottle of Gleau Nourishing oil....just sayin'.

Finally, let's talk about the actual product itself. When comparing the two products, the biggest, and most obvious, difference between the two is their consistency. The professional formula is liquid and similar in consistency to a watery leave-in. This makes the product ideal for mixing in with your current conditioner (which I do) or putting into a spray bottle and misting hair like a leave-in. Although the instructions say to rinse out, I chose not to because it doesn't weigh the hair down. Biolage Cera-Repair (tube) is similar to a conditioner in consistency. It's thick but not too thick. Last year I was dealing with treating specific damage areas. With the consistency of the Cera-Repair, I was easily able target certain areas of my hair based on need. Plus I loved the fact that once the product was applied, it stayed put.

The clincher for me, comes down to the results I experienced during use. Even though I so wanted the Professional version to steal my heart, I have to say that I was sorely disappointed compared to the regular formula. I don't know how to explain it but I could really tell the difference in my hair when using the regular Cera-Repair. Perhaps the Pro formula is more powerful but, for me, I see it more as a supporting product more than a major player in my routine. I just feels like the results are more subtle than my first Cera-Repair purchase. With the Cera-Repair, I wasn't mixing it into my conditioners, I applied the product separately so my hair could receive the full benefits (and I could tell the difference). My honest assessment is the thicker version works better with thicker hair.

And the winner is.......

While I love the idea of having access to a Professional strength product, my expectations were'nt met as sufficiently as they were with the at home version of the treatment. If you'd like to get your hands on the product, I invite you to opt for the winner of the battle of Cera-Repairs first then graduate to the Pro Formula if you feel the need.

'till next time!

How the Goody Simple Styles Modern Up Do saved the day!

So I wanted to introduce you to my newest hair friend. This accessory just joined my healthy hair family yesterday after catching my eye during a recent trip to Target. I was actaully standing in the hair accessory aisle looking for another packet of the Evolution hair bands I love so much. All of the sudden I caught a glimpse of the Goody Simple Styles modern updo (thingy).
In my best attempt to describe it, this thing is essentially on large, sturdy hair pin that makes creating updo's so much easier than using conventional hair pins.

Just this past week, I made two trips to the beauty supply store to replenish my hair pin supply. First I went to Sally's to pick up the Tangle Teaser and some hair pins. I have to return those pins because when I use them on my thick hair, they open up which causes them to lose their original form, which essentially makes them useless for holding my hair in place. After that disappointment, I proceeded to my main beauty supply store for some heavy duty hair pins. Although these hair pins do their job, I was kinda over the whole hair pin thing. Every few months I'm making a trip to the store to replace hair pins that are either lost or useless because they've lost their plastic tips, or the black coating. Another disadvantage of using hair pins for me was that a simple up do or bun required several pins to keep my hair in place. I can't tell you the number of times some good Samaritan would politely let me know that I've had a hair rouge hair pin making it's way out of my bun and most likely on to the floor.



So now this Modern Updo "mega-pin" has come into my life and I'm elated. I was wearing an updo at the time of purchase and took the very first opportunity to put that thing to work. The moment I was in my car, at the Target parking lot, I began the work of removing half a dozen or so hair pins from my coif. I felt an amazing sense of relief as I removed one hair pin specifically which had been piercing my scalp for several hours. I rubbed my scalp for a few moments then moved on to the next step. In one simple motion, I was able to recreate the same hairstyle that took a handful of hair pins with just this one tool.

Best of all, it felt really comfortable in my hair. No painful stabbing. It also stayed in place really well. No slipping out once I secured it in. A thought popped into my mind as I finished recreating my up do. "Could it be possible this new toy could help reduce manipulation breakage long-term?" Think about it, when I use 50-11 hair pins to put my hair up, I'm creating multiple contact points between the piece of metal and my hair. Although hair pins are pretty safe for the most part, sometimes, depending on how careful I am at the moment, I experience a casualty, or two, as I'm removing the pins from my hair. With this new tool, there will only be a couple of contact points between my hair and the accessory. Another feature I like is the design of The Modern Updo which is more curvaceous than regular hair pins making them much more gentle on the hair overall.

In my quest for healthier ends and increased length, I realize there has to be some sort of compromise around how frequently I wear my hair up. This tool is perfect for me. Simple to use and highly functional. I hope to experiment much more in the upcoming weeks but in the meantime, I wanted to share in case anyone else there could use a break from hair pins.

Protective Stylers rejoice! The Scünci Evolution creates healthier ponytails.

Some of the things we have to be aware of along our hair journey are the little opportunities to make seemingly small improvements that make a big impact on the health of our hair. Today I'm here to talk about one of those "small improvements."

Specifically, instead of a product or technique, I want to rave about my newest hair accessory. Ladies, let me introduce you to the newest technology in the area of hair elastics. Remember the old days where ponytail holders were secured together with the help of a metal fastener. Back then, some of these elastics were even rigged in their design. Some of you who've experienced these types of accessories know the ridges and metal fastener are breakage opportunities waiting to happen.

Then the makers of these accessories began to get smart about their design. The next level of greatness in the world of hair bands came in the form of the Ouchless band. I can still remember the day I first laid my eyes on the Ouchless bands. They were smooth all the way around without even so much as a hint of any damaging metal or snag-attracting ridges. As soon as I seen them, I knew they'd be a perfect addition to my hair product and accessory stash.
These newer bands worked really well for a while but I noticed that as time passed, the band would begin to stretch with overuse, and this would begin to happen.
The elastic could become exposed creating yet another opportunity for hair snagging to occur. Another flaw in the design of this band was the cloth-like material. Whether I realized it or not, every time I put my hair up in a ponytail using one of these hand bands, it would be absorbing the Gleau I applied little by little. Could the continuous absorption of product from the same area on a consistent basis be the culprit to the longer broken hairs I experienced from time to time?

This and other worries are no more because on my trip to Target the other day, I stumbled upon the latest technology in elastic hair bands. Ladies, meet the Scünci Evolution.

The Evelotion is the solution to all the minor inconveniences to modern day ponytail holders. This baby is made up of a 100% gel like material with no breaks in the design for potential snags. Best of all, the gel material is completely smooth all the way around and won't absorb any product away from my hair. The new design also seems to be made up of a more durable material that won't lose it's shape even after consistent usage. You protective stylers will love this. I picked these up for around $3.50. This has now become an item that I'm strongly recommending to you as a part of the continuous improvements to your hair journey. When I think of the possibilities of this upgrade long-term, I see healthier pony tails and less breakage over time. I'm currently on a temporary assignment that will last for several weeks. During this assignment, I have to wear my hair in away from my face on a daily basis. I can breathe a sigh of relief now that these bands have come into my possession. So why not look for these on your next trip to Target or Walgreens. You'll be glad you did.

Detangling: Can you really expect a miracle?

It's that time again for another head-to-head product showdown. This time, I'm putting two products to battle against on of my hair's greatest arch enemies...tangles. A few weeks ago, I was sporting a head full of new growth that was shedding uncontrollably. Constant shedding plus low manipulation normally equals a plethora of tangled hair so I knew I had to go hard and utilize whatever I had at my disposal to detangle while minimizing the casualties.

Prior to pre-pooing, I sat down, detangling comb in hand, ready to face my knots head on. I'd like to paint a clear picture of what I was dealing with. Although I was only 3 months post, I had quite a bit of new textured hair growing in. As I shed, the coils would wrap around the straight hair creating a bundling effect. So one shed hair could wrap around several other hairs at once. I'm then left with tangled chunks of hair that I have to carefully unravel. I painted this grim image for you just so you can see what kind of detangling power my hair desperately needed.

To the left of me I had a 10 oz bottle of It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In treatment. I was first introduced to this product via an overwhelmingly positive review by Essence Beauty Editor Tia Williams. Check out what she had to say about the product.



Moments after hearing what she had to say about the product, I immediately began seeking out where I would find this "miracle in a bottle." A day later I had a 10 oz bottle that I paid around $30.00. This stuff is not cheap! My Mane 'n Tail detangler, mean while, only cost me $4.49. Let me also mention that Mane 'n Tail was readily available at my local Sally's or pretty much any beauty supply store. It's a 10, however, was a little harder to get a hold of. I had to purchase at Ulta. So if I had to compare the price and availability of both products, I would say the Mane 'n Tail definitely wins this round.

Next we'll look at what the products claim to offer us for their value. Obviously, both products claim to effectively detangle the hair. But It's a 10 alleges that it can also do the following:

• Repairs dry, damaged hair
• Adds shine
• Controls frizz
• Seals & protects hair color
• Prevents split ends
• Stops hair breakage
• Creates silkiness
• Enhances natural body
• Heat protectant

I can't say for sure that this product can immediately deliver on each promise but I have to give it to them for attempting to create an all in one product that does more than most people normally expect from their detangler.

Finally came the moment of truth. How well does it work? To be honest with you, I wasn't impressed with either product when I first use them. Sure, they helped in the detangling process but I really wanted something that made them tangles beg for sweet mercy. When I first used Mane 'n Tail, my experience was acceptable but not remarkable encourage me to use on a regular basis for my detangling needs. Even my first experience with It's a 10 was mediocre. But looking back, I understand why I wasn't so pleased with the "miracle" product. Unlike Mane 'n Tail, It's a 10 is thick with a similar consistency to a conditioner. I'm so used to watery leave-ins that I was sorta turned off with the change in texture. The thickness of the product made it a little difficult to spray so I easily became frustrated with the whole process.

This time, I was willing to forget the past and start fresh with both products. My hair was in such a state that I couldn't afford not to reap the benefits, even if it were only minimal. So I start off my experiment by spritzing a little Mane n Tail on dry hair. Again, the moisture helped a little but I really couldn't see the extraordinary difference between using this product and a normal leave-in to detangle. Next came the It's a 10. As I sprayed the product on a tangled clump of hair, the first thing I noticed was the ease in which my detangling comb glided thru my hair. Section after section, the same result. It wasn't long before I set the Mane 'n Tail aside and proceeded to quickly (much more quickly than I expected) finish detangling my hair and moved on to the pre-poo. I could not believe how well the product worked for me! It was just as Tia described it in her video testimony.

Why did this product work so well this time and not the first? As I think back to my first experience with It's a 10 miracle leave-in versus this time, I can tell you that my hair was in two different states. The first time I used it to help roller set wet hair. Honestly, I just didn't like the texture to help create a great roller set. I'm so used to using a spray bottle with water that I felt like this product would weigh my hair down and alter my end result. Maybe next time, I'll dilute it to see how it works. On dry hair, this product worked like a dream. So for me, using it as a leave-in wasn't as promising as utilizing it as tangle eliminator! I didn't spray it all over my hair and scalp. I located tangles, sprayed the product, and combed thru with ease. I expected to spend several hours painstakingly working my hair section by section. That was not the case.

So, my pick for a superior detangling experience absolutely has to go to It's a 10 Miracle Leave-In. Yes, it's pretty expensive but, take it from someone who's suffered many a setbacks from not properly addressing tangles, this is well worth it. I should also mention that they offer smaller sizes of this product at a lower cost. Honestly, I feel that I'll have my 10 oz bottle forever using the search and destroy method versus spraying this product all over.

So ladies, I think we have a winner on our hands. It's a 10 miracle leave-in takes it! Thank you it's a 10. My hair now believes that miracles do happen!

Say oui to French Perm Stabilizer Plus!

A week or so ago, I decided that I'd do a touch up. One of the concerns I always try to address whenever I touch up, is the possible damage of the relaxer run-off to my previously relaxed hair. Normally, I apply my Preservo Serum all over my hair (including the new growth). Since my Preservo was running low, I figured I would venture out and try something new. I thought about it for a few moments before walking out the door. My goal was to return home with a low pH product that could easily counteract the high alkalinity of the relaxer. While at the beauty supply store, I did a quick search online and was introduced to a new product.

French Perm Stabilizer Plus boasts of a pH level of 2.5. Not knowing much about this product, I immediately began searching online to see what others had to say about French Perm. So there I was standing in the aisle at Sally's scrolling thru forum posts from those who've tried the product. Much of what I read was overwhelmingly positive. Some said the product was an excellent detangler. Others said the product made their hair soft and the strands smooth. Several contributors mentioned they used the product even when no chemical service was performed. That was all I needed to hear. Within moments of reading the reviews, I grabbed the product and paid. The bottle was huge! For only $7.50 or so, my hair would enjoy the benefits for quite a while.

To be quite honest with you, I was a little concerned about the acidity of the product so I decided to use a mix of Porosity Control (pH 4.5) and French Perm on my previously relaxed hair. For the first time in my life, I retouched with a mild relaxer. The application process was a breeze. Then came the moment of truth when I finally got a chance to use the French perm to neutralize. First off, I gotta tell you that this product has a really strong scent. This probably has a lot to do with the second ingredient, isopropyl alcohol. Make sure when you use this product, you ramp up your moisture products so you avoid any possible drying effects.

Scent aside, there's no denying the power of this product. I rinsed out the relaxer, applied conditioner then proceeded with the Stabilizer Plus. As soon as I rinsed out the product, my hair was ultra smooth and felt replenished. I've even gone on to add a little this product diluted in distilled water leave-in conditioner mix.

I have no facts to back this up, but my theory is that this low pH product, mixed in with a water (pH 7), probably creates a result closer to the hair's desired pH level of around 4.5. Again I haven't tested it but with results like this, I'm not even going to bother. Yesterday, I had to pick up something at the mall and all eyes were on my hair ( at least that's the way it felt). Even if no one paid attention to my hair, I still felt like a million bucks. I wore my hair in waves and, a day later, I still have soft waves that fall nicely down my shoulders. Best of all, I have no frizz, even in 100 % humidity. I can't say for sure if the results could be attributed to the Stabilizer Plus, the Affirm Fiberguard mild, or Coppola Keratin Infusion. Or if it's the combination of all three. I'm leaning more towards the French Perm because I laced the water in my Caruso steam setter with a few squirts to help lower the pH as I created the waves I wore that day. Plus, I think my hair is able to avoid excessive frizz because my cuticle layer is tightly sealed. Hopefully I've convinced you all that French Perm Stabilizer plus should be a part of your hair perfection system. At 32 ounces per bottle, you certainly get your money's worth. Bravo, French Stabilizer for giving me fabulous hair. Merci.

What Keratin Complex Infusion taught me about finishing strong

You may already be aware of this but I have been riding the Coppola Keratin train all the way to healthy hair land. Ever since I first used this product, not a week has gone by where I have not treated my hair to this wonderful keratin delicacy. As long as I can remember, elasticity has always seemed to allude me. At one point, I even questioned if such a thing as "elastic relaxed hair" even existed. Was elasticity nothing more than a legend? Was I wasting my time as one who scourers wooded areas in search of big foot?

I almost gave up on this search when I stumbled upon my beloved Intense Rx. Because I experienced such magnificent results, I thought I'd go back to see what else I could find in Coppola's keratin line-up. So I find myself, once again, standing in front of the Coppola section of my favorite BSS. I grab a product called Infusion Keratin Replenisher and immediately begin reading these words on back of the box.

"Coppola Keratin Complex Infusion Keratin Replenisher is a keratin replenisher that automatically opens the cuticle and infuses keratin protein. Keratin Complex Infusion repairs, enhances and strengthens the hair.

Keratin Complex Infusion Features and Benefits:

*Unique formulation with advanced infusion technology Adds high pH replenishers to automatically open the hair cuticle

*Infuses keratin proteins and emollients into the hair.

*Repairs and revitalizes hair during blow drying and ironing.

*Closes the cuticle to entrap nourishment.

*Leaves hair silky and smooth.


I was highly intrigued by the claim that Infusion actually opens the cuticle layer, allowing for deeper penatration of the keratin. Immediately, visions of my hair strand opening up to receive the goodness of my Intense Rx Keratin serum swrilled around in my head. Just as I was about to pick up the product and skip over to the register, a question popped up in my mind. "How am I going to close the cuticle layer once this product has been applied?" Since this is a leave-in, I won't have the luxuary of sealing with a cold water rinse. According to the box, blow drying and flat ironing closes the cuticle. My mind, however, would not allow me to accept that as a viable method of sealing the strand. Logic tells me that, traditionally, excessive heat nomally opens the cuticle. So in an attempt to satisfy my curiosity, I contacted Coppola customer service. I was immediately connected to a wonderful person who took the time to answer all of my questions. Unfortunately, at the end of our conversation, I got the same response to the closed cuticle question-"use the heat from the blow dry and flat iron."

So I continued to let that question marinate in my mind for a couple of days then "eureka"! I knew I had to counter act the Infusion with a low pH leave-in. The lowest pH product I could think of was my trusty apple cider vinegar. "What if I were to create a leave-in consisting of distilled water and ACV?" Once I felt comfortable with the ACV water as a viable solution, I went back to the store to pick up the Infusion.

Then came the day where I got the chance to give Infusion a test run. After deep conditioning, I towel dried and began applying the Infusion. It wasn't long before my hair began to react to the high pH. All of the sudden my hair felt stiff and somewhat brittle. I had to take special care as I parted each section to apply the Rx serum so I didn't cause any manipulation breakage. The good news is that the moment, Intense Rx touched my fragile strands, all was right with the world again. Softness and flexibility was instant. After, the serum was applied I finished the section off with my low pH leave-in then rollerset as usual.

Believe it or not, I have now developed the ability to sleep in a full head of magnetic rollers. So after my rollerset was complete I went to bed and let my hair air dry overnight. The next morning I removed the rollers and va-va-va-voom, my hair was gorgeous. Soft, supple and magnificent. I must say that I truly enjoyed the process of opening the cuticle, applying a powerful product, and sealing it in for maximum effectiveness. I think I will apply this practice going forward no matter the products I use. What good is all the time I spend pre-pooing, washing, deep conditioning, if I don't take the time to complate that final step to seal it all in? I think the ACV/h20 leave-in will be something I incorporate consistently. Not sure how that will work long term but I'll continue to monitor the results. Hopefully, this will be a healthy hair practice where I can reap the rewards from for years to come.

I enjoyed this experience because, not only did I find a couple of amazing products, I also was reminded of the need to finish strong. I read somewhere that the pH level of hair strand is lower near the scalp and higher close to the ends. This process of incorporating a lower pH leave-in helps bring balance to the entire strand. It's all about finishing strong, thank you, Coppola, for this valuable reminder.

Coppola Keratin Repair Serum-video review

Yes, it's that time again! Time for a video update. This go around I'm coming at you with a rave about my new favorite product in the whole world. I used my Coppola Keratin Repair serum for the first time last night and, let me tell you, life is good. This stuff does exactly what it says and (best of all) there's not even a hint of stiff hair burdened with protein overload. I didn't use high heat to set the Keratin serum in but I still feel like my hair benefited.

Remember, the main three qualities of healthy is strength, moisture, and elasticity. It appears as if this product is able to feed the hair with at least 2 of the 3 qualities. I talk more about the product in this video.....

roll em!

Gather around folks for the "Battle of the Pre-poo's"

So let's discuss two very different products made especially for use before the shampoo. Burt's Bees Avocado Pre-Shampoo butter and OJON restoratives hair treatment mask. Both products are made by companies who don't market exclusively to the ethic market. Both products boast of natural ingredients as their claim to fame. Although some similarities exists, there are some notable differences between the two products. Lets discuss:

You guys have heard me rave about Burt's Bees in the past. Even with my past success, I still couldn't get past the desire to have my very own jar of Ojon. I mean, the mantra of the company is "The People of Beautiful hair." Who couldn't stay away from a product like that? So I finally picked up a jar at Sephora and paid the equivalent of nearly 6.5 tubes of Burt's Bees. That's right, the Ojon Treatment was around $60.00

Burt's Bees definitely beats Ojon in the price category.

As far as the ingredients are concerned, Burt's Bees is an all natural product and so is Ojon but Ojon's main attraction is Palm Nut Oil. Before you guys start googling where you can find Palm Nut Oil, I will tell you now that it's pretty much impossible to find. Word is that the Ojon folks have the exclusive rights to this ingredient. You may find Palm Oil but that isn't exactly the same as Palm Nut Oil. Their featured ingredient is said to have the ability to penetrate the hair shaft nourishing from the inside out. Hence the name "restorative mask".

So for this round, Ojon has it!

Next let's talk about scent and texture. Both products have a thickness consistency similar to a hair grease. And both are able to melt easily into the palm of the hand just by the simple act of rubbing hands together. One, however stands hands and shoulders above in the scent category. Burt's Bees has a fresh pleasant smell that makes the entire experience that much more enjoyable. Ojon, on the other hand, has a scent that reminds me of a smoky pool hall. There's nothing like intentionally making your hair smell like you spent the evening in a smoke-filled room. I could let Ojon get by with the "natural" scent only if the scent completely disappeared after washing. Sadly, this wasn't the case. Although the scent was not a strong after washing, I was still turned off by the experience.

Another score for Burt's Bees.

Okay, so let's talk about what really matters. The results! I gotta hand it to both of these products. Burt's Bees and Ojon are both high quality created by reputable brands. But for some reason, I feel like Burt's Bees is more of a "regular use" type of product while Ojon seems like more of a "once in a while" treatment option. Both produced good results for me but nothing can compare to the excitement I felt when I first used Burt's Bees. I knew from that day that I had found a product for life. Ojon, on the other hand, I would describe as "nice to have" product more so than a "need to have." I also feel like BBs is more of a moisturizing product while Ojon leaned a little more towards strengthening.

Bottom line, both products do what they claim but I feel Burt's Bees is a much better purchase if you compare their price, result and scent. For those of you curious about Ojon, like I was, I think you can ask for samples as your local Sephora store so you can try it out for yourself. Burt's Bees pre-poo can be found at Ulta's.