Using Heat and Mainting Healthy Hair Part 2

Let's continue on in the conversation about heat usage and healthy hair shall we?  As you recall from my last post, I brought up the subject of heat usage in an effort to understand if we can incorporate heat into our regimens in a powerful way.  Using heat (for good and not evil) isn't an easy task.  We all know those who have fallen as casualties to the destructive powers of heat.  We don't want to be one of them so let's take a moment to identify some of the factors that cause/create heat damage.

• Styling tool used
• Frequency of heat usage
• Ineffective protection of the hair from heat 
• Lack of replenishment (rebuilding of) the hair before/after heat usage
• Improper use of heat

Now here's the good part where we dissect each of these factors one by one.

Styling tool used

 I've invested a couple of hundred dollars on flat irons even though I use heat only a few times a year.  Why?  Because:

1.  I can not afford to have a sub-par flat iron ruin my hair because I tried to save a few dollars. 
2. Flat irons are evolving into less damaging tools (and I want to take advantage of the newest technology).

When I use my Sedu ceramic iron, my hair feels smoother & silkier than with my old flat iron.  Does this mean that my hair is healthier when I use my Sedu?  Possibly. But what's really more important is that because my hair feels better when I use this quality iron, I tend to avoid using it again because the need isn't as great.  Even though I love my Sedu, I still  purchased a titanium flat iron because (allegedly) titanium is said to be smoother (when viewed under a microscope) than ceramic.  My search for the perfect flat iron plates may continue, but for now, I won't blindly close my eyes to the dangers of heat and use it inappropriately just because they claim to be healthier for the hair.

***side note:  Those of us who visit salons may notice that our hair feels  really healthy after getting it straightened.  One thing to note is that it's very likely that your stylist uses a quality flat iron on your hair which can create a smoother, silkier result. Quality does matter. ***

Healthy Heat Usage Tip #1:  Go for the best tools you can afford

Frequency of Heat Usage

If you break out your flat/curing iron more than once every week, you are asking, no begging, for heat ravaged hair.  It's inevitable.  Let's think about this for one minute.  Hot metal plates, which can easily burn our skin is applied (with pressure) to our hair strand.  This initial use of heat may have the ability to seal the top layer of the cuticle layer down.  Steam rises as the moisture in our hair evaporates.  Then.....three days later.....you put your hair through the same process again.  Your hair is probably already be straightened from the first instance, now you're doing it again to "freshen up" the style.  That is a huge risk to your hair.  I remember the days when girls would break out their flat iron to bump their ends every morning.  No wonder everyone was walking around with perpetual neck length hair.  All the ladies I talked to with (healthy hair) used heat every week or every two weeks.  Breaking out the flat iron between wash days was a no-no!  Honestly, I don't think using heat every week is a good idea but some people are able to do it.  Like Phoenix mentioned in the comments in part 1 of this post.  Those of us who relax our hair shouldn't have the need to use direct heat for at least the first 2 or so months post relaxer.  Any heat usage before that may be considered overkill. 


Healthy Heat Usage Tip# 2:  The flat/curling iron is a SEALING TOOL, not a styling tool.  Use it as a styling aid and heat damage will become your new best friend. 

Lack of Replenishment before/after heat usage

Let's say you're someone who visits the salon every week or two weeks for your wash and style.  Chances are, you are getting a deep condition (under a hooded dryer) with every visit.  If you're like our friend Toni, you may even be receiving steam treatments when you deep condition.  When I was introduced to the Mircromist steamer, my hair faired beautifully after my blow dry and flat iron session.  In fact,  Marie promised me that if I visited her regularly, she could have my hair at a healthy waist length in no time.  Why?  Because she would take the time to nurture my hair with each session prior to the heat styling.  The heat styling would then become a method of sealing all of the high quality products into my strands.  For those of us who don't put in the work of fortifying the strands ahead of time, using heat on the hair can will be highly destructive. 


Healthy Heat Usage Tip #3:  Only use heat following a deep replenishment process (deep conditioning or steam treatment).

Improper use of heat

I've mention several times that our heat irons should be used as sealing tools.  But I don't want you to get all excited about  what I like to call "reckless sealing."  The iron shouldn't be doing all of the work.  You've got to do all you can to seal your hair prior, during and after, so your iron doesn't have to do all the heavy lifting. There are a myriad of ways to help your iron do it's a job.  Rinsing with cold water, apple cider vinegar, and even acid water will help seal the cuticles before the drying process.  When using the iron, opt for additional tension (the chase method as seen in this video) and more pressure versus turning the temperature dial higher.  Also realize that bone straight hair can be achieved with the help of the iron and other techniques like wrapping the hair, or tying it under a scarf to manage bulk.  So basically, don't look to your sealing tool to do all of the work. 

**p.s. I know some of y'all are wondering about this "acid water" I mentioned earlier. Acid water is the newest addition to my hair regimen (as of this afternoon).  Once I've had a chance to play with it for a few days, I'll post my thoughts.**


Healthy Heat Usage Tip #4:  Seal your hair prior to flat ironing and leverage tension so less heat is required to achieve desired results.

Ineffective protection from heat

Investing in quality "sealing tools" is one thing, but getting the best in heat protectants is the holy grail of effective heat usage.  Heat protectants have two main purposes including "protecting the hair from heat" and helping to promote that smooth, silky feeling.  I'm here to challenge our way of thinking about heat protectants which I will now refer to as heat-activated strengtheners.  If the product you are using isn't a heat activated strengthener.....toss it.  For the longest, I used Gleau whenever I flat ironed.  Was it the best choice, who knows? But I used it because I knew that whatever product I utilized would be seared into the hair strand through the use of heat.  The heat protectors in my arsenal were not heat-activated strengtheners so I chose to go without.   It wasn't until my salon visit with Marie that I finally found a heat activated strengthener that, I thought, was worth using. 

Ladies can I introduce you to my homie, Kerastase Fibre Architecte?

Seriously, my hair never felt as silky and soft and when I left Marie's chair when she first introduced Fibre Architecte to me.  Then I learned that this product contained a Pro-Keratin complex, wheat protein, and ceramides (the holy trinity of healthy hair).  I didn't even bat an eye at the $40.00 price point.  The cost meant absolutely nothing to me because this product manifested itself as a perfect heat-activated strengthener.  Each time I used heat, my hair would be receiving reinforcement beyond what occurred during the wash and condition. Along with the Fibre Architecte, I also snatched up the Ciment Thermique Heat Activated Reconstructor Milk.  This product feels like a thick moisturizer. You can apply to wet/damp hair before using a blow dryer for added strengthening.  Since I don't normally blow dry, I use it as a moisturizer when I notice some breakage.  I also use it on my hair before apply the Fibre-Architecte so I have two layers of heat-activated strengthening.  For now, these are my strengtheners of choice.  If I find something more powerful, I will certainly let you all know.    

 Healthy Heat Usage Tip #5:  Your hair deserves the best, use quality heat-activated strengtheners!

When we visit salons regularly for heat styling, they tend to use quality products to replenish the hair and they may even do a decent job of protecting the hair from heat.  What I think they miss is when it comes to improper use of heat.  Sometimes the tension used is excessive along with a high temperature setting.  Hence the long term damage and thinning one experiences.  With these tips mentioned perhaps you can incorporate the good while eliminating the destructive parts of heat usage.  I'm hoping to give you some things to consider if you choose to use heat from time to time as a part of your regimen.  To be honest, some people do o.k. with heat as long as the rules are being followed.  And of course, you can also give your hair a break from heat as necessary. If your hair does better when the strands are sealed, consider these healthy heat usage tips as a part of the road map on your amazing hair journey.

Safe travels.

Can I use heat regularly and maintain healthy hair? Part 1

Probably the most infamous enemy of healthy hair is excessive heat usage from styling tools. We all know that. We all believe it. Some of us have even sworn away our flat irons for good in an effort to create thriving hair.  With all that said,  the question I have is this:  "how can all of these women pictured below use heat on a regular basis and still maintain thick luxurious hair?" And, most importantly," how can we learn to do the same?"

In order to properly answer this most important question, one must first look at these women and seek out some commonalities.  From these common practices, we will grow and get better. But before we get fully into this post, I must make an important disclosure:

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***The information below is meant to serve as a guide on how to use heat responsibly, it is not a license to use heat tools in an ineffective way. My heart just can't take looking at another head of heat damaged hair. I do not want to be responsible for the creation of such.***

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Years ago, I visited this stylist who did a pretty decent job of creating the look of healthy hair.  My friend recommended her and I was eager to try her out for myself.  I sat in her chair as she shared her strategy of how she would do my hair that day.  My only input to the conversation was when I asked that she roller set my hair instead of blow drying.  Immediately, she declined my request stating that if my hair dried under the hooded dryer, my strands would not be fully sealed which could allow for breakage and other non-desirables.  That conversation never left me. 

I eventually left her when I found Dominican salons that would both roller set and blow dry.  It never failed, every time after a blow out my hair, bone straight, would virtually stop breaking and decrease shedding considerably for up to two weeks.  Even when Marie did my hair, I rocked the straight style for at least 2.5 weeks with limited shedding and breakage compared to when I normally do my own hair.  It seemed like each time I went to the salon for a straightening, my hair (temporarily) stopped showing visible signs of damage (breakage/shedding).  What's the connection here?

To understand this deeper, we must contemplate what occurs when we use a straightening tool.  Please keep in mind that most of what I will say is my interpretation of what I think takes place.  None of this is fact.  When one uses a flat iron, three forces come into play--heat, pressure, and tension.  These three factors when combined together, have an extraordinary ability to help seal the strand while creating the look of straight hair.  Sealing the strand can provide some great benefits when done right.

Potential Benefits

•  The feeling of silkiness which reduces friction caused by manipulation.  From this, actions such as combing, detangling, and styling become easier because there is less resistance in the strand, which could lead to less tangles and breakage.
• A sealed strand can better resist external factors such as humidity.  The hair strand expands when it comes in contact is excessive moisture.  As the strand expands, the cuticle layer is raises which creates a rough texture. The hair follicle, then is more susceptible for breakage. 
• Sealing can also provide us the opportunity to reinforce the strand with nourishers that can strengthen the hair.

You might be thinking to yourself "that stuff you listed actually sounds pretty good for the hair."  So why am I hearing all the time that heat isn't good for the hair, and why does my hair feel damaged from my heat usage?

Those are great questions, my friend.  My response to you is this:  Heat is like a wild, ferocious animal that must be tamed and trained for domesticated use.  If not properly trained, the animal can turn on the owner at any moment, attacking unexpectedly, and viciously devouring him.  Knowing this, the animal owner must use extreme intention, focus, and caution whenever interacting with the animal because the consequences of failing to do so is just too great.

In the same way, careless, frequent use of heat tools on textured (chemically treated) hair is like someone frolicking in the cage of a hungry beast, expecting to come out unscathed. It's just not realistic.  On the other hand, if you study the routines of the lovely ladies mentioned above, you will find that they have some common practices to combat the harmful effects of heat.

• Most, if not all of them, restricted heat usage to once or twice a week.  I remember the days, back in high school, when a curling iron was just as commonly used in daily styling as a comb.  This behavior equivalent to having a meaty steak in hand, and back turned, in the presence of a hungry beast.  It just can not happen!
• The heat usage usually occurred in combination with the weekly wash routine.
• They are intentional with the products they used whenever heat was involved.    

My theory is this.  When heat is used after the wash day process, you may be in a place where you can experience the potential benefits I described above. The hair is freshly washed, and conditioned to a desirable state. This makes for the perfect opportunity to properly manage the use of the a flat iron.   Then there's those of us who aren't as disciplined in the use of heat styling tools.  When we choose break out the flat iron after the initial wash day, we start to experience a certain level of diminishing return.  The idea of diminishing return is that the level of effectiveness (or benefit) will decline with continued use of the flat iron (especially if the use occurs between washes). 

I believe the beginning of mastery, with regards to regular use of heat, can occur once we start to shift our view of the intended use of the styling tool.  As a matter of fact, from this point on, I will no longer refer to a flat or curling iron as a styling tool.  Instead, let's call it a sealing tool.  If that's the case, we must think a bit deeper about this sealing process and how to do it effectively.  This topic requires it's own post which will be part II on the topic of effective use of heat.  Talk to you soon!

Is your stylist using her powers for good or for evil?

It’s been a long time since I’ve visited a salon on a regular basis. I’m not talking about going into the salon for a special occasion, I’m talking about entrusting the health and vitality of your precious tresses to another person. I learned many a lesson in my younger days when I wanted so desperately to experience fabulous hair. In those days, anyone with decent looking hair were the one’s who “got their hair did” on a regular basis. I was extremely impressionable and wanted so badly to have great looking hair. That's when I made the decision to get me a stylist!

To me, a hair stylist has so much power. This person has the ability to transform the look and feel of the hair within just a few short hours. If only these people would use their magical powers for good and not evil. I’ll share with you my story and give you some examples so maybe you too can differentiate if your stylist is you hair’s best friend or it’s enemy.



Evil power #1: Your Stylist stuns your hair’s growth.

I can remember it like yesterday, I walked into a local hair salon for the first time. I think the reason why I selected this place in particular was because of it’s presence in the area. The place was large and prominent. It had been there for years. I figured that people liked what they’re getting if such a large salon could remain open and profitable for so long. That’s why I made a point to visit this place early on a weekday morning so I would receive one on one attention. I was right. I walked in and found one stylist eager to help me. Not knowing what I wanted, she offered up a glossy hair magazine to help me make my decision. Back then I was enamoured with the blunt cut bang so I selected a pic of a model who’s look most closely resembled what I wanted. She then proceeded to relax my hair and work her magic. Hours later I had a blunt cut bang………and a neck length bob. During the styling process, I was deterred from looking into a mirror. Otherwise I would have noticed that my trim had turned into a full blown cut and style.

What happened?!?!

The picture I showed her was far from a bob. In fact, I purposely spent ample time seeking someone with at least hair past her shoulders in an effort to avoid any confusion. I smiled grudgingly when I saw my new hair style and proceeded to pay for something I did not ask for. I left the salon vowing never again to return.

If your stylist makes the decision that you have too much hair on your head, she’s using her powers for evil. Stay away from a stylist who appears to suffer from longhairphobia, its time for you to move on.



Evil Power #2: Your Stylist creates false results

One thing I do love about going to the salon is the flawless look I get almost every time. The feeling of sporting silky, flow-in-the-wind hair is like no other. If only that feeling would last forever…but alas the fresh out of the salon feeling soon fades. I’ve accepted the fact that the just stepped out of a salon look doesn’t last forever, what I can’t cope with is experiencing massive amounts of breakage as a result of all of the crazy practices your stylist uses to create the fresh, fabulous hair look. Is your stylist creating healthier hair or just better looking hair? If your stylist has to trim dead ends every month, chances are your hair isn’t getting any healthier. That’s when you have to decide if your hard earned money is working against you and your lovely hair.



Evil Power #3: Your voice is powerless against your stylist

I visited a salon once at the recommendation of a friend. When I sat in the chair the stylist asked me what I wanted to experience during my visit. Impressed by her level of interest, I decided to proceed with my desire to have a rollerset done after the wash as a setting method. The stylist then proceeded to talk me out of a rollerset stating that my hair would not benefit from this practice. I tried to reiterate my request to no avail. I remember on another occasion I asked a stylist to rollerset my hair in a certain way in order to produce a different result. She responded simply by saying “no” and proceeded to go about her business like I hadn’t even said a word.



Evil Power # 4: Your stylist knows not of healthy hair

I firmly believe that the purpose of visit a salon and paying your hard earned money is to obtain beautiful, healthier hair. Your stylist should have a vested interest in the overall health of your hair. He or she should talk to you about what you’ve been experiencing and what you want to accomplish with regards to your hair. Does your stylist inspect the health of your hair regularly? Does he or she care about how your hair is acting between visits? If your stylist is using her power for good, then your hair should be reaping the wonderful benefits. If you are not reaping the rewards, you are better off cornrowing your hair, buying a wig and using the $50-$75 you spend every other week on full body massages instead. The person doing your hair has (hopefully) spent a countless number of hours training in the art of hair. You should not feel anything less than sheer bliss every time you visit your stylist. If he's using his powers for good, your hair will show it.

I'm not saying that all stylist are evil. In fact, I've come across a few that were very supportive to the health of my hair. I'm here to just make sure that you are selective in who you chose to take your hair to the next level. If your stylist is not taking your hair to new lengths, cut her out of your life.

Minimizing damage from a Dominican Salon blow out

Update time!
I wanted to follow up on the technique I described in my last post about how to wash the hair without producing a bunch of tangles in the process. A few days back, I decided to visit the Dominican Salon for a blow out. I actually despise getting a blow out because of the massive amount of tangles I would incur from the wash. Top that off with a busy stylist, a small tooth comb, and voila! (tons of damage).

This time I chose to be proactive. I washed, detangled, and conditioned my hair at home. When I got to the salon all I needed was a rinse and rollerset. Even though I got plenty of stares, walking in with wet hair, it was all worth it.
I think this was one of my best Dominican Salon experiences ever.

Let me tell you more about it via video.

Nanokeratin, could this be the salvation for our relaxed hair?

My husband's family reunion is over the July 4th weekend. After 3 months of stretching, I figured that a visit to the Dominican Salon would be just the thing to get me ready for my California adventure. Let me first start off by saying that I normally dread every trip I take to the salon. I actually begin having a minor panic attack over the thought of having some heavy handed, busy shampoo girl run a comb though my tangled hair.

The reason why I have such apprehension about my salon visits is because no matter how much I prepare for the experience, I still end up losing a ton of hair in the process. I preteat, detangle, and oil my hair before trip but they still manage to leave half my head of hair on the floor between the comb out at the shampoo station and the rollerset.

The good news is that I may have figured out how to minimize the amount of tangles I experience during the process. One of the joys of the wash and set, for me, is the heavenly scalp massage I receive as the stylist vigorously scrubs my hair. I normally just roll my eyes in the back of my head, sit back, and enjoy the experience. Yesterday, the tangles we so bad that I asked that the comb to be handed to me so I could attempt to undue the damage myself. As I worked through the massive tangles, I asked myself, "why doesn't my hair get this bad at home?" "why is this happening to me right now and how much hair will I have left when this is all over with?" The answer to my question became clear as day to me. The scalp massage! The way they massage the scalp is not condusive at all to tangle-free hair. When I massage my scalp at home, I take extra care not to cause or create tangles. Going forward, I will forgo my beloved scalp massages as a necessary sacrifice for the hair which I love so much.

Although I have long thick hair, one area where my hair could definitely improve is in its strength. Whenever someone (usually a stylist) does my hair without using the utmost amount of care, I end up losing lots of hair in the process. For years stylists have told me that my hair is not in the greatest condition and that I needed the healing touch of their hands to nurse my hair back to health. Judging from the amount of hair on the floor, I would usually decide not to take them up on their offer. My alternative was to take care of my hair at home. This arrangement worked well for me for two reasons:

1. I actually like doing my own hair and I have the patience needed to avoid causing any damage.
2. I usually experience more growth when I do my own hair as opposed to when I go to the salon.

So yesterday, the guy who did my hair (not my usual stylist) took a look at my hair and summoned an English speaking employee (the one who was responsible for the massacre of my hair that took place at the shampoo station) and asked that she interpret a message that he had for me. After listening to him speak in Spanish (in hopes of being able to miraculously understand what he was saying), I turned to my interpreter and waited eagerly for her explanation. She then proceeded to tell me that I needed have a special process done to my hair called Nanokeratin.

Nanokeratin, she explained, would help make my hair stronger by adding keratin to the hair. Her English was not fluent enough to convey the message completely so I quickly looked for someone else who could do some justice to his message. A second stylist told me that for a minor cost of around $250.00, I could literally have keratin infused into my hair strands from a revolutionary system invented by scientists in Brazil. According to her, once my hair received this treatment, it would once again regain its natural strength along with shine and softness.

I know that most of you are thrown off a bit by the price tag. I was thrown off by the fact that this is a new system created in Brazil (remember the Rio disaster of the 90's) If the claims of this product were actually true, $250.00 would only be a minor inconvenience for having a head of strong, soft, long, healthy, hair. I read somewhere online that unlike normal protein conditioners and treatments, the size of the keratin particles are so small that they literally bond to the weak and broken areas of the hair shaft. Normal protein particles are large and therefore lay on top of the hair which restrains the movement and ultimately causes that "protein hardness" that we all try to avoid.

Here is some additional information that I obtained from their website:

History

The Tanagra Nanokeratin machine is made in Brazil. Dr Fausto Silva discovered the system whilst working for the Cancer Research Institute in Brazil, trying to find a cure for skin cancer. Using Tanagra Nano technology on his patients� arms he had so far been unsuccessful in curing their cancer but found that the hair on their arms was becoming stronger and healthier. It took 6 years to develop this find, into a product, which could be used on human hair.

His company �TANAGRA� is now one of the biggest names in the hairdressing industry in Brazil for innovative products and services. The Tanagra Nanokeratin - Permanent Hair Repair System can be found in most salons throughout South America and is now available in many countries around the world, including Central America, USA, The Middle East, Portugal, Spain, Greece, Singapore, New Zealand and Australia.



How it works:

Tanagra Nanokeratin is a revolutionary approach which uses the combination of keratin and nanotechnology to recover cuticle damage in the hair by replacing the hairs natural keratin lost through chemical and heat usage.

This advanced state of the art system produces keratin nanomolecules turning them into a micro mist which is then brushed into the hair. Unlike traditional keratin sprays, the Tanagra Nanokeratin process reaches the flaws and fissures of strands avoiding the hyper conditioning and the feeling of dry hair.



What is Keratin?

Your hair structure is a combination of a complex natural protein called keratin, and moisture.
In normal healthy hair, keratin accounts for approximately 90% of the structure and moisture the remaining 10%. Keratin is principally responsible for the hair’s strength and resistance to general wear, while moisture is mostly responsible for its elasticity, flexibility, softness and manageability.

Unfortunately straighteners, colours, perms, blow drying, sun damage, pollution, pool chemicals and even everyday wear and tear like brushing can damage your hairs keratin and moisture levels.

How do you know your hair is damaged? Well your hair will feel and look coarse, woolly and dull. If we look at our hair through a microscope you would see cracks, splits and craters in your hair strands.

Now, with a breakthrough in advanced nanotechnology, scientists in Brazil have developed a
brand new and permanent hair repair system that can ‘turn back the clock’ and restore your
hair structure back to how nature intended it to be, soft, shiny and healthy.

The state-of-the-art Tanagra NANOKERATIN system uses nanomolecular keratin, particles so small that you could get millions onto a pinhead! An incredibly fine and powerful penetrating mist
inserts them into the damaged areas of the hair structure filling them completely. Then the nanomolecules are locked into the hair with another mist, forming permanent and insoluble keratin, just like natures’ own!

The result is beautiful, soft and silky hair in superb condition with an incredible shine. The hair instantly becomes healthier and more manageable. The TANAGRA NANOKERATIN system quite literally puts life back into the hair! Repair is approximately 80% effective on the fi rst application, 90% on the second and 100% on the third application. The TANAGRA NANOKERATIN system uses the same keratin protein as would be found in your hair, but in its smallest possible size, which is then locked in to the hair structure for permanent repair.

TANAGRA NANOKERATIN is quite simply the fastest, most technically advanced and efficient hair repair system in the world. All hair types benefit from this new technology, but the most dramatic results are seen in extremely damaged porous hair.



Here is a lengthy youtube video produced by the company describing the process in detail.



I am extremely excited about this technology but I am also a bit apprehensive about using "new technology" on my hair. If I do decided to shell out $250.00 dollars for this Nanokeratin treatment, you guys will be the first ones to know. By the way, the stylist said the process could take like three hours because they have to cover every strand with keratin molecules.

I also read online that African American women who are natural do not benefit much from this treatment because the hair is already in a pretty healthy state naturally. Women with relaxed hair receive better results with this treatment.

What do you guys think? Is it worth the money?

Updated Pics from my recent salon visit

First of all I must apologize for taking sooooo much time between posts. Right now I am about 3 hours away from catching a plane to the other side of the country. I'll be visiting my husband's family on the West Coast. In honor of the occasion, I made a visit to my local Dominican Salon. Here are some early pics. My hair looks better in person then in these pics. And for some reason my hair always looks better a day or two after getting it done.

By the way, my stylist recommend that I undergo some kind of treatment that is supposed to replace the keratin in my hair that is lost from relaxing process, styling, etc. Get this, the treatment will cost me around $250.00 and depending on the condition of the hair, I may require several sessions.

Over the next few days I will be researching the web for more information about this treatment and will post an entry when I have the details. I am extremely excited about the potential benefits if the claims are true. Stay tuned.

In the meantime, here are some pics taken today.

Keeping your hair healthy when visiting Dominican Salons

I can not tell you how elated I was when I first heard talk of Dominican salons. These salons were described as a wonderful place for those of us who were disheartened by the not-so-positive experiences of many traditional African American salons. Not only were these salons less expensive and delivered faster service, the stylists also seemed to possess
magical powers that could transform our dull lifeless hair to silky strands unlike anything we have ever known before.

Then reality set in. We soon learned that too many visits to these salons could eventually led to thin, lifeless, and even damaged hair. I have personally experienced damaged hair from doing the Dominican salons the "wrong" way. I also have met some wonderful people who understand the Dominican salon experience and how to do it the "right" way.

I want to share with you the best practices of three ladies I came across at my favorite salon. These ladies served as examples of how to frequent Dominican salons the right way. Lets talk about them and what they did to protect their hair along the way.

**The experiences I am about to share with you are real, names have been changed to protect the innocent.**

Example #1: Nikki
Nikki was already about to receive her blowout when I walked into the salon. She sat in her seat with her rollers neatly in place. The stylist removed the magnetic rollers one by one and began to blow out Nikki's hair. Nikki had extremely thick hair that reached her shoulders. The length and "eveness" of her hair led me to believe that she sported a cute bob not so long ago. I sat amazed at how thick and healthy her hair looked. No thin ends for her.

At the foot of Nikki's styling chair sat a large bag. Bringing a bag to the salon was not unusual. My bag was the place for my books, water, snacks and whatnot. Nikki's bag, on the other hand, had within it her hair product stash. The stash consisted all of the products that worked well with her hair. Nikki even brought her own relaxer with her. Nikki knew what worked well for her hair and made sure that her hair was receiving the same benefits whether she was doing her own hair at home or at the salon.


That, my friend, is the first lesson of doing Dominican Salons the right way. Bring your most effective products with you.


Example #2 Dominique
Dominique was next to me as we sat under our hooded dryers.
I immediately was intrigued by her large jar of garlic conditioner. I opened our conversation by asking her if the product was worth the price. One thing led to another and she began to detail her weekly routine of coming to the salon for a wash,set, and wrap.

No blow out for her, Dominique came in only to receive weekly deep conditioning treatments from her favorite stylist. Week after week of maintaining this ritual allowed Dominique's relaxed hair to regain its strength and length.

The lesson I learned from Dominique was to look at the salon in a new light. The Dominican salon was not just the place to go for blow outs, you can also go visit your local Dominican salon for deep treatments to help bring your damaged hair back to life. When doing so, you should avoid the blow dryer and opt for wraps instead.

Example #3: Anya

Anya walked into the salon and had every one's attention immediately. She had the most beautiful mid-back, thick hair that I've ever had the pleasure of laying my eyes on. After seeing her on several other occasions, I just had to ask her how she could come week after week and still maintain the health of her hair. Anya told me that she was unable to do her hair herself and came to the salon every wash day. I became even more intrigued and asked she give up her secrets.

Here they are:
1. Anya only allowed certain individuals to wash her her hair. With her hair being so long, she knew of the likelihood of experiencing tangles. Tangles are the one of the worse culprits of damaged hair at Dominican salons. Most of the stylists run a comb small tooth comb through your hair with little concern about how much hair is lost in the process. She would literally make requests for certain individuals not to wash her hair. She knew who could handle her hair the right way and she made sure that only those individuals could touch her beautiful hair.

2. Anya made special requests to have her only her roots blown out. She admitted to me that her hair would not turn out as straight as others in the salon but she preferred having more body to straight lifeless hair. Anya also required her stylist roll her hair in a different direction than others in the salon. Client after client would have her hair rolled "under." Anya's hair, on the other hand, was rolled in the opposite direction so that her final blow out would result in full fabulous hair.

I remember one visit when Anya and I were finished with our style at around the same (I actually stayed and waited for her to get done so I could see the finished product). Anya's hair was full, healthy looking, and fabulous(think Kimora Lee's hair when its done up). My hair was super straight and limp. I envied Anya and her luscious hair. What's more amazing is that Anya have type 4 hair just like I did. The difference between our visit is that she took the initiative to modify her Dominican salon experience to fit her hair's needs.

The lesson that I learned from Anya is not to just sit in the chair like I am just another client. I need to make special requests (if necessary) to obtain the results I want without sacraficing the health of my hair.

Are Dominican salons the answer to our prayer for silky beautiful hair? Perhaps. But we must make certain to learn from those who have cracked the Dominican salon code. Those lucky few can endure the harsh styling methods and still maintain healthy hair.


Oh, before I go, I want to include some of my tips of how to help protect my hair when I go to the salon.

Tip #1: Pre-poo. We always make sure to pre-poo when we are at home doing our own hair but do we take the same precautions when we get our hair done? Before every appointment, I make sure to saturate my hair with as much conditioner and oil as I can.

Tip #2: Detangle before you go. I have suffered greatly from not taking the time to prepare for my salon visit. When I take the time to comb out the hair that shed the previous week, the person roller setting my hair does not have to battle with a bunch of tangles.

What tips do you have that help protect your hair from damaging blow outs?

My recent visit to the Dominican Salon

Several years ago I had never heard of a Dominican Salon. In fact, several years ago I had sworn off salons altogher. I was basically frustrated with the quality of my hair after spending 4-5 hours in a salon under the mercy of a stylist who did not give a hoot about the health of my hair. I heard so many great testimonials from the salon that I decided to venture. Since then, I have never looked back. Don't get me wrong, there are some pros and cons involved.

PROS:
Silky bouncy hair
You can extend your relaxer longer
You actually see other black women there with long hair
Some of the stylists there are actually concerned with the health of your hair.
Usually takes less time than going to a regular African-American salon.

CONS:
Heat!!!!
Round brush and heat combined
Hair so straight that it may appear lifeless.
Visiting the salon to often may lead to thining hair.

My hair is super thick and prone to breakage. Everytime I go to the salon I end up losing a lot of hair. I take it as a tradeoff because after I am done, my hair is fabulous for the next two weeks. The good news is that I know my limits, I only visit my Dominican sisters every two and a half months or so. Otherwise, my hair would hate me. Plus, to be completely honest, I actually prefer big hair to the super-straight flat hair I have when I've gotten my hair done. I usually come straight home and put in rollers for additional body. Overall, I am happy with my visit but I will not be back in for a while. I plan on going back to a rigid hair routine in preparation for the warmer months when my hair growth accelerates. My goal is to strengthen the hair so it retains more of the length that will I receive in the summer. That way, I will reach my goal of mid-back hair (once again) by the middle of the year.