How to keep the sun from destroying the most valuable part of your hair

Summer is upon us once again. What I love about summer are the extended daylight hours and the warm bright sun.  I'm a July baby so the heated temperatures don't bother me at all. One only thing that bums me out about summer is this, the potential damage that can be caused by the sun.

I'm not only talking about damage to the skin from ultraviolet rays. It's even worse than that. Hopefully by now, each one of us is applying a decent sunscreen to protect our skin on a daily basis.  But what about the part of our bodies that comes in contact with the sun first...our hair.

Did you know of the potential dangers of ultraviolet rays to our hair?  It turns out photoaging which is normally a term we use to describe the leathery skin created by excessive sun, can also happen to our hair as well. There was a study done on a couple years ago on this topic.  They studied changes to the hair after exposure to UV rays.  Particularly they were looking for shifts in the amount of hair lipid present in the cuticle.  Now, if you read my post on 18-MEA, you already know that this compound is a lipid (fat) present on the cuticle layer. It provides a level of protection against damage, creates shine, and helps promote a smoother cuticle which lessens the impact of mechanical damages and makes combing much easier.

Not only are we destroying our blessed 18-MEA when we relax or color our hair,   we're also impacting this precious compound by exposing our hair to UV radiation.  Basically, our hair is being damaged by the sun.   So now that we know this. What are we going to do about it?

Hopefully everyone reading this has scarf they normally wear to bed.  But do you have any scarves that are cute enough to wear outside?  There's are park near my house and, from time to time, I like to take a morning walk.  The difference in my hair on the days I wear my scarf vs. when I don't is undeniable.  I'm not just talking about the humidity-induced frizz, I'm talking about dry crinkly hair.  My hair looked and felt like the sun took it's toll on it. From that moment on, I began to feel really uncomfortable whenever I would spend long amounts of time (hours) in the morning or mid-day sun without some sort of protection.

If covering your hair with fashionable scarves outdoors isn't your thing, consider picking up a couple of products meant to help provide UV protection for the hair.  Aveda has a line of products for this purpose and so does Kerastase.  Neutrogena silk to touch leave in cream also contains UV filters to protect the hair from dryness caused by the sun.  These are just some of the few. ApHogee's gloss polisher has UV filters as well.  Feel like going the natural route?  You can opt to include some natural plant oils in your regimen before you head out for a day of fun and sun.  Oils like macadamia nut, hemp seed, sesame seed, shea butter and coconut oil all provide low levels (under SPF 10)  of UV protection.  So if you know you will be outside for the day, bring a little bit of a sun protecting oil with you to so you can reapply if needed.


Finally, even with the sun protection, I suggest you still have on hand products that contain 18-MEA to replenish the stored lipids that are brutally taken away from you.  I've been using MEA containing conditioners for the last couple of weeks and my hair has been very pleased. I still thought it would be a good idea to pick up a leave-in with this amazing ingredient so I can give my hair this treat between washes.  My next move was to adopt a bottle of Kerastase Chroma Thermique (Thermo-radiance protecting milk).  Meant for color treated hair, Thermo Milk contains both ceramides and the valuable 18-MEA ingredient.

Those two work together to create a fabulously healthy cuticle layer.  The lipids help provide elasticity and shine while the ceramides keep the cuticle layer sealed from damage. Oh, and I learned from the Kerastase site that Chroma Thermique also contains UV filters and can also be used to protect hair from heat styling.  Although it does contains silicones, it's first ingredient is water which technically can classify Chroma Thermique protecting milk as a moisturizer.  So far, my hair is loving this hot pink hair restorer.  Yes, it's a little pricey, but for all the benefits I get, I would say this is probably the most valuable Kerastase product I own.  Let's recap this product's value shall we:

• Heat protector
• UV filters
• Light,water based moisturizer
• Ceramides
• 18-MEA
• Color protector

It's like Kerastase was thinking of me when they created this product.  O.k. I'll stop gushing about the Chroma Thermique and move on.

 The bottom line to all if this is to raise your awareness of the need for sun protection throughout the summer (and pretty much every day).  If you relax, your already depleted levels of 18-MEA (from relaxing) is stripped away even further from sun exposure.  Even if you're natural, the sun will still damage your hair.  Color treated girls, you're part of this too!  Bottom line is that no one is safe.  We all have to protect ourselves one way or another.  When I re-read the details of the study mentioned earlier, I learned that the cuticle damage to the hair was greater in UVB (outdoor sun) vs UVA radiation (indoor sun like in the picture above).  This means that our hair is more susceptible to damage when we're outside vs indoors.   So even those of us who don't go outdoors much are still being exposed to UVA radiation and still must take precaution to protect our skin and hair. I hope we all learned something today and from this learning, I pray that all you will take some type of action to protect our hair and skin from accelerated aging caused by the sun.  Enjoy your summer!

From Natural to Relaxed and lessons learned along the way

In recent past, I've received emails from ladies who are newly relaxed after years of rocking their natural hair.  Many of them are filled with confidence from the fact that they learned so much about their hair during their natural journey. All of the wonderful ladies I've spoken to were highly optimistic about being able to maintain the health levels of newly their relaxed tresses.

For a while now, I've wanted to write a post on making the big change from natural to relaxed.  It seems like transitioning from relaxed to natural receives lots of attention nowadays but little is shared about how to maintain a healthy journey after a virgin relaxer.  Needless to say, I will still dedicate a post on this topic. But in the mean time, I'd like to introduce you all to a special guest I have sitting in the Relaxed Hair Health lounge with me this evening.

Why don't you all join me in giving a warm welcome to miss "Lucie!"

Just one glance and you'll see that this woman's hair is simply stunning.  I've secretly stalked her hair journey from beautiful relaxed hair to gorgeous natural curls and back again.  I decided to reach out to her to see if we can gain a little wisdom from her multiple hair journeys.  Ladies, let me tell you. This woman was so proactive that she pulled questions from the blog's past features and answered them for me without me having to ask.  How cool is that!?!

So without further adieu, let's get to know Lucie and her fabulous hair.

1. What is your hair type? 
I would classify it as a 4a. I love my hair natural/relaxed. I have always had thick hair and it gives me many styling options. Now that I am relaxed again, I get a kick out of people thinking my hair is still natural but straightened.

2. How often do you touch up/relax?
Once a season, give or take a week or two.

2. What is your current length?

I am APL and getting close to BSL.



2. Please share your regimen.
What do you do daily, and weekly, to care for your hair? Daily: I usually have my hair in a high bun or high ponytail. At night time I will comb it and put it in yet another bun with a pin at the end to keep it from unraveling. Weekly: I deep condition every week when I am relaxed. I use Nexxus Therappe shampoo and Nexxus Humectress condition. I alternate with Alter Ego condition about once/twice a month. How often do you wear your hair out vs. protective styling? I do not wear my hair down often because I've gotten it caught on my clothes, in car doors (LOL) and whatever else it can get itself into. I usually wear a bun. I try to alternate the location to protect my hairline. I wear my hair down for special occasions or if I am wearing delicate clothing that does not create snags.

4. You've made some huge progress with your hair journey.What do you attribute most to your success? I would say keeping things simple. I do not stress about hair. I know it will do what it should and I just make sure to keep myself healthy. Good hair health comes from the inside. So I work out, take my vitamins, drink water, eat good foods, et cetera. Also, I do not do too much to my hair. I condition when it needs it. My hair loves water and I make sure I condition-wash frequently.

5 How often do you co-wash?  

Now that it is summer time, I condition wash daily. When I am relaxed in the winter or fall, I condition wash once/twice a week. 

6.  Tell us more about your air drying process.I just condition wash and go. I rinse with a cheapie Suave conditioner and when I am done, I apply some Herbal Essence mousse to keep my hair less frizzy.

7. Have you had any setbacks/trouble along the way? I noticed that the right side of my hair was a little thinner than the left.

8. How did you overcome your setbacks?
I stopped wrapping my hair in a way that stressed the right side. And I also massaged that side with castor oil to fill it back in.

9. How are you able to maintain such thickness overall?
 I do not use a lot of heat. I do not even own a curling iron/flat iron. I pin curl to achieve a curly look and I wrap my hair if I want it sleeker.

 10. Looking back at your journey so far, is there anything you would do differently?Or wish you would have done sooner? I am content with my journey. I try not to focus on the things I cannot change and only focus on what I can currently do. I apply my mantra to my hair as well, LOL!

11. What was the difference in regimen between when you were natural and when you were relaxed? The only difference is that shampooed more relaxed than when I was natural. When I was natural, I shampooed sometimes every other MONTH. My natural hair did not like shampoo.

13. Will you do anything differently to avoid any possible damage from having relaxed hair?

 I will be more mindful of when my hair is out not to have it brush on fabrics. When I was natural my hair was so big I did not really have to worry about it brushing on my clothes.

Lucie attributes her "transition" to relaxed hair as a decision she made just "to switch up her look."  She also mentioned the fact that her hair was beginning to block the visibility in her rear view mirror.  In the future, she may transition again to natural.  I just love the carefree and easy attitude she has towards her hair.  That way of thinking makes it easy for her to see loads of progress whether curly or straight.

I asked Lucie to take a look at the post I did about hair lessons we can learn from naturals to see if there was anything I missed that's worth mentioning. She felt that I pretty much had it covered.  One thing about her regimen that really sticks with me is her daily wash routine.  I always thought that naturals were the ones who's hair thrived from daily co-washes.  Anyhow, I'm glad that Miss Lucie was generous enough to share her story with us.   

I will still dedicate a post on this topic in the near future. In the mean time, thanks for sharing this moment with me and I hope you all have an unbelievably amazing week!  

Sandwich of the Sea! Powerful nutrition in every bite.

 I'm doing this thing where I'm challenging myself to eat meals that support my overall health goals.  Since Uni's gluten free bread came into my life, I'm finally able to enjoy sandwiches again.  Honestly, I thought I would never be able to eat another sandwich but now that I can, I'm choosing to maximize the nutritional power of something so simple as a sandwich.

One of the variations of this healthy snack is a simple sandwich where I use avocado in lieu of mayonnaise.  I read online that avocados increase the absorption of the antioxidants found in leafy greens by 200-400%.  That's why they are perfect for adding to salads and anytime you are enjoying healthy greens.

Speaking of greens, my favorite thing to do, whenever I'm eating any sandwich, is load it with organic greens.  Sometimes it's spinach and arugula, sometimes a spring mix, sometimes baby kale.  Whatever the choice, I make sure that my greens are capable of delivering powerful nutrients and iceberg lettuce just doesn't cut it for me.  Although I don't have it pictured here, I've also started adding alfalfa sprouts to create a little flavor kick and an extra boost of nutrition.

Finally, I add the "piece de resistance," in the form of omega 3 fats and protein.  The salmon makes the meal just a bit heartier.  There's also another variation of this sandwich I make includes using King Oscar sardines. Along with the omega 3s, the sardines also elevate the amount of calcium I'm getting in this meal. Believe it or not, I actually prefer to enjoy sandwich with sardines. It just seems to taste better but isn't as visually appealing which is why I opted to display the salmon sandwich instead.

 I try to remain intentional when I eat this sandwich taking in small bites and enjoying every bit of it.  This isn't just a simple snack. It's a nutritional powerhouse!  Just looking at these pictures is making me hungry. So what are you having for lunch today?  Is it possible for your to tweak the recipe just a little bit to make it a tad more nutritious?  What if you did this to all of your meals, every day? What difference could it make for you long-term?

Inspiration.

"I dream my painting and I paint my dream"- Vincent Van Gogh

I just love feasting my eyes on things that bring forth inspiration.  Today I'd like to share what currently brings me inspiration.  Hope you enjoy.

What are you inspired by?

Create a healthy cuticle layer & intensify shine with 18-MEA

Healthier hair. That's what we all want right?  I mean, what else is there?  Today I want to chat a little with you on the topic of healthy hair and some of the fundamentals required to create and promote the natural health of our hair.  Long ago, I wrote a blog article on an Asian based hair product called Asience. I was truly attracted to this hair product because of a unique ingredient it contained. This ingredient is critical to the achievement of hair perfection. Those of us who relax, color, use heat, etc are especially in need of this amazing compound. What I speak of, is an ingredient called 18-MEA.

So what is 18-MEA and what is so special about it? Simply put, 18-MEA is a lipid (natural oil) which occurs naturally in the hair follicle. The purpose of this lipid is quite similar to ceramides in that they help maintain the integrity of the cuticle layer. When the cuticle layer is protected, that's when all the magic happens. But somehow, I had forgotten about this magical ingredient up until now. We've discussed another type of (hair) lipid in the past also known as ceramides. Adequate supplies of  these lipids are critical to having hair that is close to the way nature intented.   Hopefully by now, you have several ceramide containing products in rotation.  But now, it's time to take this thing to the next level!  For the past few weeks I've been racking my brain on what I can do to elevate the strength and resilience of my hair. I touched up recently and, immediately after a relaxer, I like to act with intention on how to restore the health of my hair after such a traumatic process. Then suddenly,  it came to me and I immediately swung into action.

The first thing I did was reach deep into my hair product closet to see if I had any of the Asience left. Much to my surprise, there was my Asience with about 1/3 of it left in the container. Next I re-read my previous posts to see what I can learn from my past experience. Turns out that this Asience did a great job of creating strength in my hair but I had to make sure I incorporated tons on moisture promoting products in the process. So I did exactly that. I mixed a few pumps of the Asience with Keracare Humecto and another moisturizing conditioner. During the roller set, I noticed how strong and resilient my hair felt. My Mason Pearson comb glided through my hair like a breeze. I was highly satisfied.

  Then I wondered what other products were out there, that were easily accessible, which contined this wonderful ingredient. Turns out that there aren't many products on the market containing 18-MEA. I looked around online and found some brands that few know about. Heck, the only reason I knew about Asience is because I happened to see a banner ad online once and was intrigued to learn more. I'll list the more "exotic" 18-MEA products below for those of you who are interested. But in the mean time, I would like to inform you that Redken's strengthening line of products contain what I consider the trinity of healthy hair ingredients....proteins, ceramides, and 18-MEA. Since I don't live far from an Ulta store, and they happened to have liter size bottles of Redken products on sale, I did what I had to do.

As of this moment, I haven't yet used the Redken product so I'll hold off my comments until I get a chance to try it.  I will say that most of the reviews I've read online are highly positive.  Honestly, I have high hopes for this product and I pray it won't let me down.  What really excites me most about 18-MEA is that with continued use, the hair continues to improve.  How cool is that??!!   For this reason, I have made the vow to always have an 18-MEA containing product on rotation no matter where I am in my hair journey from this point on.  My philosophy of creating healthier hair is all about bringing in the components that are missing from our hair as the result of chemical and every day damage. One of the most critical components are the lipids that help keep the cuticle layer sealed.  A properly sealed cuticle creates hair strands that shine, retains moisture, are less porous and less likely to break. Again, isn't that what we all want? I'll be sharing more about my take on the Redken product in upcoming posts but for now, here are some other 18-MEA brands out there for those of you who are as excited about this as I am.

Glam up your ponytail with Hair Cuffs

For as long as I can remember, I've had an affinity to cuff bracelets. Perhaps it stems back from my fond memories of Wonder Woman leveraging her amazing cuffs for crime fighting purposes. Take a look at my extensive accessory collection and you'll find numerous cuff bracelets of various colors and textures. I just loves me some cuffs.

So imagine my excitement when I learned of the cuff ponytail holder.

Turns out that H&M carries them these cute hair cuffs different several different styles for around $5.00.  Soon after discovering these beauties online,  I hit the streets and headed to my local H&M store to claim these cuffs as mine. 

While at H&M, I picked up one with a textured look and feel in a pewter color. But, to be honest with you, my favorite of all is the smooth surfaced cuff. 

I just love the classic simplistic look of these inexpensive accessories. They're simple yet they make a clear statement. Just like that, an ordinary ponytail is turned into a sophisticated hairstyle.  For that reason, I think I'll grab one in silver to complete my set (Wonder Woman had two cuffs and so should I).  Since summer is upon us, I've been contemplating ways to keep my hair tamed without always going for the basic bun.  Ponytails are a clear alternative for me.

Heads up ladies, I'll probably host a hair cuff ponytail holder giveaway pretty soon since I'm sure someone out there will be just as excited about having one of these as I am.

What on earth convinced me to purchase a $100.00 Mason Pearson hair brush?

It never fails, whenever I enter a retail store, I'll swing by the hair product section. I used to do this for the purpose of finding quality products, but that ceased years ago. Nowadays, I venture over the hair aisle and gaze longingly at the combs and brushes. It's like I'm always seeking something better.  I'm on a constant search for a brush and comb capable of taking my styling routine to the next level.

 Even though I always find the same selection of combs and brushes from store to store, something deep down inside me always seemed to whisper "there's gotta be something better." Now, mind you, I did find some pretty amazing detangling combs in the past. But that wasn't enough to satisfy my insatiable urges. My search continued. Then one day, it happened....I stumbled upon The Mason Pearson line of hair combs and brushes while wandering online. The Mason Pearson brush looked awfully close to my Sonia Kashuk brush I picked up long ago while at Target.

Biggest difference was the price tag.  I think I paid around $15.00 for the Sonia brush, meanwhile the Mason Pearson would run around 7X the price.  The old Nadege would have flinched at the cost of this brush.  You see, years ago, I was a certified cheapskate. I wanted to pay the lowest price for anything and everything I purchased.  Meanwhile I didn't even notice how that way of thinking lead me to collect a series of sub-par quality products that I would have to replace and repurchase several times over.

Then I began to shift from a scarcity mentality to one of infinite abundance.  This change in mindset was not an easy one. But, looking back, I wouldn't have it any other way.  What I realized was that if I invested a little more opted for the best I could afford, I would get so much in return.  Soon, I became addicted to the quality which quickly over shadowed the cost.  When I realized that the brush of my dreams was over $100.00, the first question I asked myself was "what makes this brush different?"

Let me hightlight two of the features that contribute to the awesomeness of this brush:
-The brushes are known for their craftsmanship.  I've read several accounts of people who've had their Mason Pearson brushes for 10, 20, and even 30 years (I'm crossing my fingers that this is the last brush of its kind that I purchase).
-The bristles and nilon are said to be of superior quality.    My Sonia Kashuk looks almost exactly like my Mason Pearson with one exception.  My SK brush is showing obvious signs of wear and tear. To be fair, I've had the Sonia K brush longer and have used it more frequently. But I wonder if years from now, my Mason Pearson brush will maintain it's appearance better than its $15.00 counterpart.
-The nylon bristles are said to stimulate the scalp for healthier growth meanwhile the brush helps distribute natural oils throughout the hair giving it a nicer appearance.

What worries me the most with brushes is when they cause excessive harm to our hair.  Looking at my Sonia brush now, I wouldn't dare use it for fear of mechanical damage which may occur due to the condition it's in.  Mechanical damage is the type damage caused to the hair strand by an outside source.   I talked a little more on this topic in this post.  Combs and brushes are probably the biggest contributor of mechanical damage.  My strategy is to minimize that type of damage is by opting for the highest quality brushes and combs I can get my greedy little hands on.

Oh, and did I also mention that I picked up a couple of combs from their line as well?  At around $30.00 each, one has to ask themselves "is this girl crazy?"    Perhaps I am.  But perhaps I considered that if this comb can indeed protect my hair from excessive mechanical damage (even if the improvement is slight), then it's worth the cost.  I'm thinking that if this comb can allow me to retain more hair while styling, detangling, etc. Perhaps that's less money I will have to invest in quality conditioners and such.  Who knows.

I must admit that I have a pretty decent collection of quality wide tooth and detangling combs. But since these bad boys came into my life, things are different.   At first I thought I made a mistake investing $30.00 on a comb. Especially since the teeth on it more narrow than my traditional (and favorite) wide tooth that I always use.

It wasn't until I actually used this comb that I noticed an obvious difference between the Mason Pearson and my other combs that made me retire all of my combs for good.   You see, the Mason Pearson is quieter than my other combs.  "What the heck does that mean?" you ask yourself.
Well I'm glad you asked.  I never noticed this before I used my Mason Pearson comb but my plastic bone combs make a louder sound as I work it through my hair.  Obviously the sound I'm speaking of isn't extremely loud but it's still present.  The sound of friction as I comb my hair, is more evident when I use my large plastic wide tooth comb.  I correlate this to the possibility of more mechanical damage.  Based on the assumption that the more audible the sound, the greater the likelihood of excessive friction.  Just a thought....not a proven fact.

Not only that, my Mason Pearson comb seems to work through tangles just as easy, if not easier than combs with wider teeth. Oh, and I lost less hair too! Just sayin'.......

Since bringing these new additions to my all-star hair team, I must say that I'm pretty content.  My cravings for ultra-effective combs have been quenched (for now).  And I rest comfortably knowing that my hair is better protected during moments of styling.

Now here comes the disclaimer:

***Just because I spent a small fortune on some combs and brushes does NOT mean I've turned into Masha Brady, standing in front of the mirror, brushing my hair with 100 strokes a day. I'm still doing what I've always done which means that I detangle on wash days with product (preferably an oil for added lubrication) and I brush only when the occasion calls for it.***

I'm not gonna go crazy and over manipulate just because I have a fancy, schmancy, hair brush.  They are here to support my hair goals, not destroy them so I plan to use them and their amazing powers for good, not evil.  Years from now, as I look back on my decision to elevate my hair comb game, I know I will smile longingly at myself and softly whisper "you did good, girl....you did good."